Holly Anthony, Far and Ride.

“Ideal!”

Holly from Far and Ride recently returned from a long weekend of riding in Dartmoor, driving cattle and trail riding across the beautiful, open moorland. Although this part of England is acknowledged as offering excellent riding terrain, the chance of working with cattle from horseback is rare in this part of the world with most travelling to the far fields of Wyoming or Montana in order to fulfill their cowboy dreams. Phil and his family can offer genuine, hands-on cattle work at their farm in south-west England, where you are guaranteed a warm welcome and can enjoy the company of the numerous cattle, sheep, horses and dogs on site. A typical week combines a few days of cattle work and some superb trail riding opportunities, making the most of this rural setting.

Cattle have a natural respect for the horse meaning that a rider can move them with minimum stress. The work is extremely satisfying, each member of the group having a part to play, whilst riding the horses over such open country is a real pleasure. Stays of two, three or six nights are available and can be flexible in terms of riding hours, pace and in accordance with what work needs doing. Riders should have a confident seat and be as happy to ride calmly behind the cows as they are cantering up the lush green hills during a hack out. Holly chose to ride in authentic western tack as this is both comfortable and practical for long riding hours, though English saddles are available for those who prefer it. Phil and Mandi’s horses are in excellent condition and fun to ride, some having been homebred or owned from a young age.

Guests are accommodated in a local hotel which provides clean, comfortable accommodation with a restaurant and bar on site. The hotel lies just a few minutes drive from the farm (guests could also walk or cycle) meaning that you have minimum travel during your stay but can still enjoy your own space. Breakfasts are provided at the farm each morning and lunches are eaten out at pubs during the rides and are included in the price. If Mandi has done any baking then you’re certainly in for a tasty treat and a cup of tea after your day in the saddle! You are then welcome to return to the accommodation at your leisure and can choose to eat dinner there or to explore the local area.

Here is Holly’s account of the weekend:

“After a four and a half hour drive from Bedfordshire, I was delighted to pull into the driveway of the farm and to be greeted by Foster the dog and his companions. Mandi offered me a warm welcome into the homely kitchen where I parked myself in a rocking chair. Homemade biscuits and flapjack were waiting for me, along with a cup of tea, and we had a friendly chat about the horses and the farm whilst waiting for Phil to return from checking the cows. As I was travelling alone it was particularly nice to be made to feel so welcome in this new environment and I immediately felt that clients could be comfortable. Although guests are primarily accommodated in the hotel down the road, I was to stay in the farmhouse for the weekend in order to learn as much about the farm as possible. My room was clean and cosy (I slept like a log!) and I loved the feel of the house, rich with horsey memorabilia, lovely rustic furniture and a big log burner in the living room. Guests can enjoy these comforts before and after their daily rides, also making use of the spacious games room equipped with snooker table, pool table, TV and multi-gym. I was invited to join Phil’s son, Darcy, in a game of pairs snooker against friends, another example of the family’s welcoming attitude (we won of course!).

Friday afternoon involved a short ride across the moors – my first taste of the Dartmoor countryside! Whilst riding Grace I enjoyed the vast amounts of open space and the grassy hills. The pace of the riding can be adjusted to suit the riders and there is certainly scope for enjoyable canters if you desire them. Grace was forward-going and comfortable with a willing attitude, clearly happy in her job. I chatted with Phil and Mandi as we rode and it was clear that they make a great partnership with genuine care for their horses as well as the enjoyment of their guests. I soon learned that the word “ideal” is vital in the West Country lingo and can be applied to a variety of situations… before long I was saying it myself. After dinner it was time for more tea and baked goodies before heading down to the hotel restaurant, where guests would most likely eat, for some traditional pub fare. Ideal!

Saturday was pub ride day and this time I rode Rock, a Quarter Horse gelding with a relaxed attitude. First off was a little impromptu cattle driving as Phil saw the opportunity to move a small group of cattle into the next field. We then headed off on our ride and encountered sheep and ponies living wild on the moor, including a mare with a very young foal at foot (amazingly cute as you can imagine!), and I enjoyed the fresh air and beautiful scenery. You can see for miles when riding on the hills. We eventually “parked” the horses in some convenient little paddocks, removed their bridles and loosened off their girths before heading into the pub for a relaxing drink and lunch. The pub was small and friendly, a real chance to get a feel for the local area as well as stocking up on energy for the ride home. The horses remained sensible on the way back and we enjoyed strolling on a loose rein as well as riding at fun canters. The pub ride was about four and a half hours in total and there are various pubs to head to and routes to take from the farm, depending on what guests fancy and how long they’d like to ride.

Once we had settled the horses back into their paddocks at the farm it was time to get cosy by the log burner, ready to watch some TV and eat more in keeping with my usual style! Riding burns off a lot of calories and Mandi’s baking was the perfect way to replenish my energy (that’s my excuse). Looking out the window I could see the lambs playing in the field next door, leaping on and off the roots of a tree. In the evening I went out with Phil to visit another of their farm areas nearby, a short drive away, to check for any new calves and to care for the others there. No new calves that night but it was a pleasure to see those that had already arrived, jumping around in the straw with their mothers. One of the weaker calves needed a little extra help with feeding and guests can learn a lot here about how they are handled.

In total, the farm is home to around 800 cattle and 1200 sheep so there is plenty to see and do. Farming has been in the family for a long time and both Phil and Mandi’s fathers are horsemen. Phil’s father, Courtney, is still regularly seen around the farm and you may get the chance to ride alongside his field of miniature ponies! Mandi’s father also has a horse and cart if guests are interested to see this. All part of this rural lifestyle!

Sunday was the “big day” when we would work together to move around 90 cattle from their barn on the farm to a patch out on the moor. Five riders set out with photographer in tow (their photos will be on our website and Facebook page), two of us leading the cattle out and the others working the sides and driving them from behind. The experience was something entirely new to me, my only previous encounters with cattle having been giving them an occasional stroke when passing them in a field! Once en route we moved them out across the dam and then onto the moor. Phil had told me that there is a lead cow who the others follow and in this case it was clear to see… the leader turned out to be a beautiful dun colour whilst all the others were black! With ‘Dunny’ leading the way we were off across the open country, navigating streams and rocky areas, and working with the dogs who rounded up any strays. Rock kept his eyes on both the cows and his girlfriend, another beautiful horse named Jesse, and was sure-footed across the difficult ground. The cattle walked with great purpose, no doubt enjoying the fresh air as much as me and looking forward to the excellent grazing that the moor provides them.

Having driven the cattle out to a lovely green patch of grazing, it was time to head back “home” with a real sense of satisfaction. We rode back to the farm, sorted the horses and then settled in the kitchen for a hearty bowl of chilli followed by cake, drinks and chatting. Before long it was time to pack my bags and go, though I must admit I was reluctant to leave new friends and this beautiful riding country behind. Even driving away I was able to admire the lush green countryside and open space of Dartmoor, a reminder that exciting riding is often closer to home than we remember.”

Read more about the ride here: Moorland Cattle Drives and Trail Rides, England.

Western Training Clinic, 9th – 16th June 2012.

Calling all medium to advanced western riders!

From 9th – 16th June 2012 there will be a training clinic at our spectacular Kiskunsagi Ranch in Hungary. Riders will spend either the mornings or afternoons training in the arena, then spend the rest of the day out riding the local trails. The ground in this part of Hungary is beautifully sandy meaning that the going is superb for canters and gallops.

During the lessons you will work on various western riding disciplines such as reining, pole bending and barrel racing. The week will conclude with a friendly competition to try out your improved skills in the saddle.

The ranch offers a warm welcome and has excellent facilities. Guests are comfortably accommodated on site and can also enjoy other activities such as carriage drives, visits to the local cheese factory or perhaps a trip to the bird watching station. The ranch has just been visited by our Managing Director, Sue, who is happy to tell you more about the set up. You can also read her holiday report.

The family that own the ranch have had great success in the world of western riding competitions and have a variety of trophies and awards to show for their hard work. The horses are well-trained to help you improve your technique and are also sure-footed and fun to ride in the open country. They are primarily Quarter Horses and Appaloosas, ideal for this type of riding, and many of them are homebred.

To read more about this destination, please visit our website: Kiskunsagi Ranch, Hungary.

Hans H.

As promised, here is a full comment on my stay in Brazil from 18 – 25 March 2012.

This was an absolutely amazing holiday! The riding was intense – I certainly got very tired – but the countryside was lovely and the local people wonderful.

Of course, being the only foreigner there, I did not have a standard itinerary, so I suppose that my comments can’t be taken as a reflection of the typical experience. In some cases we did things and went to places that they said they could not do with a bigger party – either because it might be difficult with several people or because it was impossible to get a van there to prepare food. I made clear to them at the start that I had no expectations in terms of food – “I eat what you eat, I drink what you drink” – so at times we ate simply from saddle bags (although being gauchos they still had a habit of making a fire and cooking meat – I just helped gather up some firewood).

So I had a fascinating time, and was really immersed in the culture. There was one of me and four of them. I got credit for this – they thought I was “brave” not being worried about being the only foreigner. Except for one of the gauchos, their English wasn’t great, but we communicated fine and they found it very funny teaching me Portuguese words. If I suffered, it was on days when we spent 7 hours riding, sometimes at a hectic pace. But this did not prevent me from doing anything – it was just that at the end of the day I was in serious pain and walking like an old man and everyone (including me) found it very funny. They then made me drink caipirinhas as well as beer to feel better. The atmosphere was at all times great: these gauchos are warm-hearted, fantastic people. Practical and assured on the land, and great at cooking in the evenings.

The first 2 nights I was at Fazenda da Chapada, owned by Daniel Camargo Klein. Daniel is a helluva guy, large and brimming with life. On Monday we went for a 3.5 hour ride in the area, which was really about acclimatisation. On Tuesday we left, headed towards Fazenda Rodeio Bonito. There were three of us – Daniel, the gaucho Giancarlo and me – and the distance was 45kms across country. We stopped at Fazenda da Ferradura for lunch, provided by an elderly couple who spoke no English but were very welcoming and warm to me.

We arrived in the evening at Rodeio Bonito, owned by a woman called Luzia, who has a stunning farmhouse designed by her architect daughter. A converted barn, it’s all stone and wood, and wonderfully furnished. Luzia spoke decent English – she had lived in Dallas for 3 years. For this reason, Daniel thought it a good idea that we used Rodeio Bonito as a base – in addition it’s in the heart of Coxilha Rica, with lovely open countryside. It was a wonderful place to stay – I had a bedroom upstairs; the agreement with Luzia was that the gauchos took over the kitchen every evening (she became a guest in her own home), and she and I typically sat drinking at the counter that enclosed the kitchen, talking and joking and joining in the general mayhem while listening to gaucho songs. These generally express a feeling for the land and lifestyle, as well as the universal theme of unrequited love… something that anyone might relate to…

On Wednesday morning I walked around the farm with Luzia, hearing about the history of her family, the area and the culture, and going into a natural forest and across some marshland. In the afternoon, I had a 4-hour ride with the guys up to the top of local hills, with views for miles over the surrounding area. Riding back in the dark we were surrounded by fireflies, a quite bewitching experience.

On Thursday four of us, led by Daniel, rode to a waterfall some 20km distance and made a barbecue lunch there. We took everything with us in saddlebags (lots of beer and meat). This was somewhere they say they like to go, but can’t take larger groups to. Afterwards we stopped at a really old fazenda (Sao Joao) and looked around inside – a lot of old family photos, documents and furniture.

Friday was a really hectic day. Two of the gauchos and I took 10 horses overland to another fazenda. This was fast-moving: we covered 30km in under 3 hours, mostly at a trot but sometimes cantering. Chasing the horses up and down hill, over rocks, through forests and streams was amazing – whips cracking, shouting, water shooting everywhere. This was the point when it came home to me that I was living a cowboy fantasy! Liberation! Our destination was Fazenda Limoeiro, another old place totally isolated in the heart of Coxilha Rica. We left all the horses there to roam in the fields and were picked up and drove perhaps 20km to another fazenda, from where we took new horses and rode some 15km back to Rodeio Bonito.

Saturday morning we left Rodeio Bonito, which was sad – Luzia was in tears because we were going. This was a long ride, across country back to Daniel’s Fazenda da Chapada. Just me and two gauchos. We stopped for lunch in a small natural forest, then stopped for water at a fazenda, where we sat and talked with three generations of a local family. The teenage daughter spoke some English, so although she was shy I spoke to her a bit, and everyone was clearly very pleased. At times like this I really felt an honoured guest – I was treated with kindness and great respect, and tried to reciprocate with smiles and half-bows and basic greetings and thanks in Portuguese.

We arrived back at Fazenda da Chapada at about 6pm. There was quite a welcome party – Daniel, his wife and two kids, local radio announcer Kaskao who had initially given me a lift from the town of Lages to the fazenda the previous Sunday, and a few friends of the family. I was damn sore, so was immediately put on caipirinhas by Kaskao, whose freelance reportage of local affairs seems to rest heavily upon his love of life and genuine warmth, both fuelled by caipirinhas. We had a very jolly evening – some fantastic food, beef and pork cooked over a fire within the barn – and lots of drinks. I was presented with a gaucho belt amidst a lot of laughter and hugs from everybody. It was touching and I must admit that I felt tearful…

An old man present showed me a pile of photos he’d taken since the mid-1940s – he’d been involved in trucking lumber out of the region for export to Puerto Rico in the 50s – it was all a brief economic history of the region’s links with the outside world. Despite his lack of English and my lack of Portuguese, we understood each other perfectly well, and he was clearly delighted to have an “Englishman” for an audience. We exchanged cigarettes and repeatedly drank to each other’s health… before his (I suspect long-suffering) wife dragged me away to eat more. This pretty much sums up the spirit of the people down there.

I had started my holiday with 4 days in Rio de Janeiro – with which I was supremely impressed. I think I have been to several of the world’s most visually attractive cities (Cape Town, Sydney, Hong Kong, Bergen in Norway), and in my view the geography of Rio beats them all. Going up to the statue of Christ is just superb – its mountain towers 1000m over the city, the statue itself is the most serene man-made monument I have seen, and the views of Rio on a day of cloudless blue-blue sky were unsurpassable. I also found a way to beat the queues for the cablecar at the Sugar Loaf – despite the heat I walked more than half-way up through the forest at the side, and caught the cablecar at the mid base station for the final 170m to the 400m summit. The views from here were great, especially along the coast over Copacabana and Ipanema.

I finished my stay in Brazil by flying from Florianopolis up to Sao Paulo for 2 days. Wandered around and even went into my company’s Brazilian office, where I met with the head of Brazilian equities – an interesting end to a fascinating Brazilian journey. I felt great walking in there wearing my riding boots, jeans and a checked shirt, to be shown smilingly into the boardroom (no doubt with behind the scenes messages on the theme of “there’s a mad guy from London here”). I did leave my leather gaucho hat at the hotel though – unfortunately on the streets of Sao Paulo, the largest city in the southern hemisphere, it made me feel a bit like Crocodile Dundee and attracted a few too many stares. The financial folk of Sao Paulo were very perplexed as to why somebody from London would choose to spend a week riding in the highlands of Santa Catarina, and I did my best to convince them of the marvels of their country and its people. Their knowledge of Santa Catarina seems to be limited to Florianopolis, which is a very trendy seaside resort – all the wealthy Brazilian footballers have villas there and the place is allegedly packed with supermodels. Hell, life does present one with some hard choices, but when all’s said and done - and at the risk of sounding very strange – I have to say that riding with gauchos wins out over supermodels for me…

Now to an apology. This has been a very long account, perhaps too long (once I started I realised that it will serve as a good reminder of my trip for me!).

Specifically, to answer the questions in your questionnaire:

1. The holiday was exceptional. Eye-opening and exhilarating.
2. Favourite memory: driving wild-running horses across country.
3. Would definitely return – in fact it would be easy to fall permanently in love with this area of Brazil.
4. Accommodation was very comfortable – much more than adequate.
5. Food was excellent. Lot of meat – this is the local cuisine – but mixed with plenty of salad and some vegetables. Lot of cheese – again this is local fare. Large quantities of beer and cachaca (cane spirit, the active ingredient in the caipirinha).
6. Horses were good, and in first class condition. They have wonderful endurance – after 7 hours riding they had a lot more life in them than I did.
7. The guides were excellent. Spirited, at ease and genuinely concerned that I was having a good time. 100% reliable – the sort of men that you would happily trust with your life (and I guess I did!). It should be noted that these gauchos are not country bumpkins – far from it: very much citizens of the modern world, who yet love the open country, where they have grown up and intend to make their lives.
I spoke to your local man, the Flemish Paul, on the phone shortly after arrival and on my final day (I didn’t have reception most of the week). We never met, but he was friendly and had clearly done a good job organising things.
8. Riding equipment was good. Saddles were good, and covered in sheepskins – which eases long rides somewhat.
9. Airport transfer was punctual and efficient.
10. No suggestions for improvement. Again, I would repeat that my trip was not a standard one.

Your service:
Thanks so much for your efforts – for facilitating this unique trip.
Your info was good – I was as prepared as I could be (in reality, I think that one needs to be open-minded and go with the flow – I don’t think anything can really prepare you for the actual experience. I know that many Europeans find this difficult to accept – but an open mind and flexible attitude take you furthest in this life). I would happily book another riding holiday with you. Not sure where I’d go – Ecuador, Argentina, Jordan and India all appeal – as well as back to Santa Catarina. You are absolutely welcome to use my first name and quote me, if that is appropriate and it helps in any way. And I’d be happy to be added to your email list. Damn, I know you’re going to drive me mad with temptation.

Thanks so much for making this possible.
With warmest regards,
Hans

Read more about this ride here: Gaucho Experience, Brazil.

Kiskunsagi Ranch, Hungary, 2012.

Sue Woodbine, Far and Ride.

I’ve just returned from my first trip to Hungary and I was not sure what to expect… what a wonderful adventure it turned out to be! Accompanied by Stephen, my non-rider husband who is also a Director of Far and Ride, I visited our Western Ranch situated in Kiskunsagi Park which is about 80km from Budapest. Ida met us at the airport and we drove the scenic route to the ranch (this was not intentional but it was fun!). The countryside during the journey was very pleasant but flat and unexceptional. However, once we were near the ranch the countryside totally changed beyond recognition – this area is basically known as the Hungarian desert as there is sand underfoot for miles! I got out of the car and was struck by how peaceful and tranquil the ranch was… this feeling remained for the whole of our stay and is difficult to describe unless you have been there yourself. The pace of life is so different and offers a great way to escape from hectic lives back at home.

Ida showed us to our accommodation which served as two double rooms and was accessible via some outside wooden stairs with entrance into a small kitchen. The accommodation here is very comfortable – the rooms are spacious and some do have access to a small kitchen area whilst all have en suite facilities. Our room was great with a clear view over the horse corrals. A television is available in each room and there is plenty of cupboard space and room for riding clobber! The rooms are spread between different buildings set around the ranch but all are spacious and comfortable with some suitable for families with three beds as well as a room perfect for groups. There are also American Indian style tipis on site which I think most children would simply love (and some adults too!). Meals are taken in the small bar/breakfast room where there is access to the internet, a huge flat screen television and a fantastic sound system. The bar has authentic decor with bar stools made from western saddles and the shelves are covered in trophies – the horses at this ranch have been western riding champions for many years and the owners have won a host of rosettes and cups which are proudly displayed. There is also a barbecue and pizza oven in the comfortable outdoor area near the bar. The swimming pool is close by so drinks by the pool will definitely be favourite!

As for the food… it’s fantastic! Our breakfasts consisted of fresh fruits (the biggest strawberries I have ever seen!), yoghurts, cereals, cheeses and Hungarian specialities such as stuffed peppers. The bread and jams were fresh and delicious. Ida was keen to show her skills with the new waffle machine and, to be fair, after a smokey start the results were pretty good once she had perfected the batter (with some help!). Fruit juices and a good selection of teas and coffee are available so guests can enjoy veritable feast to start the day. Dinners here are typical Hungarian fare – wholesome dishes cooked with fresh local ingredients. The stews and goulash are definitely very tasty whilst one night we had meat loaf with mashed potatoes which was also delicious. We enjoyed local wines with our meals and they were a pleasant surprise as I had no previous knowledge of Hungarian wines. I had not realised that this area was covered in vineyards so wine tasting is also an option.

Sanyi takes care of all the horses at the ranch, along with Josef who also drives the carriages. There is a large team working under Sanyi and they collaborate to keep these horses in fantastic condition – all were well-fed and happy. The horses in work are kept in corrals near the main buildings and each corral has a covered shelter with a fly curtain at the entrance. They have an ongoing supply of hay as well as hard food when required. Youngsters in training are kept in groups in corrals further away and horses not in work or mares in foal are kept in the adjacent fields. The fields also have large shelters and ad lib hay – due to the sandy ground there isn’t much in the way of natural grazing and so hay is an important source of forage. Horses have a long and happy life here with the old and retired horses having an important part to play in looking after the youngsters and keeping them in check. I have never seen such a content bunch! They are mostly Quarter Horses, Appaloosas and Arab crosses. Whilst the ranch’s speciality is western riding they now also have some horses suitable for English riding and these are mostly local Hungarian breeds. There are lovely stables on site for those horses needing any special attention or mares about to foal.

The facilities here are first class to enable the training of the horses throughout the year. There is a large covered menage, two large outdoor arenas and a round pen. Riders are often introduced to their horses in the round pen to make sure that they are comfortable. Those new to western riding often need a few tips but once they are confident then the first trail ride can begin. If you wish then you can have some western lessons everyday… this is certainly the place to be for high level western tuition.

My husband Stephen has only ridden very occasionally and so needed a sensible steed for our first ride out. Sanyi chose Doris for this momentous occasion! She is a sturdy soul, known for her good temper unless another horse gets too close. My horse Gulliver was a chestnut Quarter Horse and Ida rode Oke, a horse for advanced riders only with a keen temperament. Sanyi was training one of the new “English” horses, a flea bitten grey called Bartal. Sanyi adjusted our stirrup leathers and checked we were fine and comfortable. He mounted his horse and led us down a sand track for a few miles and eventually we cut across country. The sand underfoot made for easy riding and there is only one small road to cross when riding. You can ride for miles and miles without any sign of habitation. We eventually found our way riding over farm tracks, passing many fields of vines and the odd farmhouse. The farms we passed all had a menagerie of animals in the yard including longhorn cattle, sheep and some seriously aggressive turkeys! The people here are mostly self-sufficient so everyone seemed to have their own hens at the very least. They often make their own wine and some very strong liqueur/schnapps called Palinka (not for the faint-hearted as I later discovered).

The peaceful countryside attracts a plethora of wildlife. In the UK hares are now a rare sight but here they live in abundance – what a sight they make as they speed over the fields! We saw many deer on our ride and they often darted in front of us and frolicked away over the open land. We rode cautiously to start with and several trots later we embarked on our first lope of the day. Stephen was still in the saddle so Sanyi, who was at all times very safety conscious, felt comfortable enough to speed up our ride. Ida tells me that riders happy in the saddle get plenty of fast riding – the going is perfect for speed. After a few hours in the saddle we stopped for a picnic at an abandoned church which sat on its own on a grassy hillock. One of the girls from the ranch, accompanied by Josef, had  arrived in a van full of goodies and set up a table for lunch. The sunshine was glorious as we took off the horses bridles, loosened their girths and tied them up for a break. A delicious picnic awaited which included a large bowl of goulash soup accompanied by hunks of bread, very welcome after our ride. There was more to follow with two sorts of pancakes – one with a type of soft cheese filling and the other with apricot jam. Yummy!

We dozed in the sun for quite a while after this feast. “This is going to be one of the trail rides that guests will definitely enjoy”, I thought to myself. The beautiful weather was an added bonus to what was already a lovely ride. After this glorious lunch break we saddled up and went back on our way. Doris was on her best behaviour, taking care of Stephen whose confidence in the saddle had risen majorly since the start. By the time we got back to the ranch he was a regular cowboy! Gulliver was a very comfortable ride for myself who doesn’t get to ride that much and Oke continued to prance for Ida until she got back home. The horses here are well-schooled and often you will be riding one of the horses that wins all the prizes at the western shows.

Stephen’s next adventure continued on another day when he had the chance to drive a carriage! Ida decided we should visit the local cheese factory to see how the cheeses are made and, of course, to sample as many as possible. This is a trip which will be offered to guests and is certainly worth doing. Josef collected us in the horse and carriage and Ida, myself and Stephen tucked in the back on the way there. Sophia sat beside Josef, along with a huge basket of wine and beer in case we needed supplementing on the journey. The two horses pulling the carriage were large, black, fit and shiny… ready for action! The drive took us down the sand tracks to Isjak, the local town, and the clip clop of the horses’ hooves was very comforting as we admired the countryside in a leisurely manner. It was so relaxing. We eventually found ourselves at the cheese factory and were met by the manager, a young man who took us through the process of cheese making and showed us the various sorts of cheeses they make here. We were then taken to a tasting area and sampled some of their produce, accompanied by some local wine. Delicious! It was a very interesting afternoon and we came away with a bag full of cheese goodies to eat later. Josef and the two horses had all been dozing in the sunshine quite happily.

We got back in the carriage, this time with Stephen sitting in the front. Carriage driving is taken quite seriously in this region and there are often competitions. We took a diversion to go around the chariot course on the edge of the town and Josef showed us his considerable driving skills and the agility of these magnificent horses… I could see that driving could be fun! We started back to the ranch and on the way Josef handed the reins over to Stephen for his first driving experience… Stephen is renowned for his careful nature and thus he took avoiding the holes and bumps very seriously! Josef was confident enough to light up another cigarette and all was calm until he clearly became bored with this far too sensible behaviour and flicked the horses into action. Suddenly we took off at a vast speed as if a marauding bunch of Apaches were on our heels! Sophia, Ida and myself clutched the sides in a bit of a panic and nervously giggled. We soon dissolved into hysterical laughter as we realised we were not going to stop in a hurry and decided that we had to make the most of it. Stephen and Josef were in control! If we hung onto the sides then with a bit of luck we would not get thrown out of the back and covered in sand. It seemed an age before Josef slowed us down but eventually calm returned to the team – the horses are so incredibly fit that they were barely puffing. Stephen got out of the carriage with a somewhat shocked expression on his face, even though he knew that Josef would take control if necessary. It was a fun trip and not to missed! At times like this a palinka might be welcome.

One morning Roland, the ranch manager, took us to visit the bird station nearby. This area is known for the many different birds – some stopping off on their migration to and from Africa. In season there are experts manning the station and they can show you the many birds in the area, some of which are tagged so that knowledge can be gained of their behaviour. There is a tall watchtower from where you can see for miles. You will be able to ride here on one of the riding trails but non-riders might wish to spend some time here if they are keen bird watchers. Nearby Roland took us to  areas where they are clearing the lakes of the reeds. When out riding you will pass the reeds tied in stooks which are then used for thatching. There is a great conservation programme in this area and when the  overgrown lakes are cleared there will be more water and wildlife will return.

We did not have time to visit the thermal baths in the area but I’m told they too are well worth a visit, particularly after a day in the saddle. We will certainly do so when we return to the ranch as we hope to do! We took the opportunity during our visit to spend a night in Budapest – hotel accommodation is cheap and we found a hotel in the city which was only 20 minutes from the airport.

We both very much enjoyed our visit  - it’s somewhere that everyone will be made welcome, whether they are single travellers, couples, families or groups of friends. A hen party would have a spectacular time, even if some didn’t wish to ride! You can have so much fun, we laughed a lot and really enjoyed ourselves. The professional staff will ensure that the riding programme is tailored to suit you. They can hone your riding skills and make sure you have a good time out of the saddle. I can highly recommend this trip to everyone who wants a truly relaxing holiday in or out of the saddle.

Read more about the ride here: Kiskunsagi Ranch, Hungary.

Petra Trails, Jordan, 2011

Sarah Ritchie, Far and Ride.

From 3rd – 12th November 2011, Sarah from Far and Ride escorted a ten day Petra to Wadi Rum tour in Jordan. The tour consisted of three nights in hotels, five nights camping and one night in a permanent desert camp. There were six days of riding, a visit to Petra and a visit to the Dead Sea. Tailor made programmes can be designed for groups wishing to spend longer exploring Jordan.

Below is Sarah’s report on the week…

“I arranged to meet Far and Ride clients Karl, Ann and Emma at Heathrow Airport before our departure so after a brief coffee we headed to our boarding gate and we were off. The flight to Amman took approximately five hours and as soon as we arrived we were met by an Airport Representative who was there to assist us in obtaining our visas. This proved to be a very fast and easy process followed by a driver waiting for us as soon as we had collected our baggage. I do recommend having Jordanian Dinars to hand though as the ATM in arrivals was empty. We waited a very short time for another rider to arrive on a flight from Paris before setting off to our hotel in Amman for the evening. We were all handed our welcome packs containing information on Petra and Wadi Rum along with our weekly programme detailing each day.

We were driven to the Larsa hotel in Amman for our dinner and overnight stay. The buffet dinner consisted of various salads, chicken and beef dishes, pasta and a variety of delicious desserts.

In the morning after a breakfast buffet of eggs, flat bread, cereals, fruit, tea, coffee and juice we were picked up and driven to Petra via the Desert Highway. The drive takes approximately three hours and it soon became apparent that, generally speaking, people in Jordan do not drive very sensibly! Nevertheless we made it in one piece after a brief stop en route to admire the views over Wadi Musa and checked into the Petra Palace Hotel. Jessica and her assistant manager Areej were already there and waiting to greet us. We all had more of a chance to introduce ourselves to each other as some of the riders had arrived very late the previous night. We were a rather large group of fourteen – thirteen ladies and Karl (he never complained about this!). We took the short walk to the entrance of Petra and were met by our experienced private guide for our three hour tour.

There are various options once you have entered Petra of how you wish to travel; by foot, by camel, by horse, by donkey or in a horse and carriage. Most of the group opted to stay on our feet knowing we had many hours of riding to follow in the coming week. Although I had seen many photos of Petra I think we were all in agreement that it has to be seen to be fully appreciated. The whole ancient city is far greater than I anticipated and it seemed as though you could explore this archaeological treasure for days. Our guide was superb; friendly, passionate and informative. We were introduced to the famous Treasury as well as the old amphitheatre and various other tombs. It felt as though we had stepped back in time.

We stopped for lunch at the Basin restaurant in Petra; another huge buffet meal of salads, meats, vegetables and many desserts before wandering back to the hotel at our own leisure. Unfortunately at this time of year the sun sets at around 5pm and we would have all loved to have spent more time in Petra. One of the riders opted for a camel ride on the way back and I was almost tempted myself but I decided it didn’t look as comfortable as horseback!

Several of the riders chose to visit the newly installed Turkish bath at the hotel that evening where guests can enjoy a body scrub, massage, steam room and jacuzzi all for around 20 Jordanian Dinars. After yet another buffet dinner (we ate very well on this trip!) Rami came to visit the group to introduce himself, discuss the tour and answer any questions we had. He quizzed us each individually about our riding experience and the type of horse we would like to ride and handed each of us a Jordanian scarf (Kafihe).

The next morning we were driven in several taxis to the stables of Jessica and Rami where the horses were saddled and waiting for us. Rami carefully matched us all to our horses before splitting the group into two smaller groups to begin our adventure. Rami did a fantastic job of matching us to suitable horses. I completely fell in love with mine on the first day, a handsome, charismatic Anglo Arab gelding. There were quieter horses available for the less experienced and less confident riders as well as many spare horses in case any needed to be swapped during the tour.

Rami individually checked every rider was happy with her, or in Karl’s case, his mount once we were on the trail and he proved to be a fantastic guide. We were made to feel very well looked after and safe. He was always checking on every member of the group and always alerting us all clearly before any change in pace. We also had one of his dogs joining us for the entire ride (this was not planned!) although we never did find out his name so he was known by all simply as “dog”.

The morning ride was a steady and mountainous one with fabulous views of Petra. It wasn’t long before several Bedouin families were coming over to wave and say hello as we rode past. We stopped for lunch after around 3 hours, tended to our horses before tucking in to a delicious lunch with hot and cold drinks. There were two support vehicles with us the whole way transporting our luggage, food and drink supplies, mattresses and tents. I have no idea how they managed to cram so much stuff onto the two trucks but we were certainly never short of supplies. At every lunch stop the horses were untacked, watered and fed and given time to take a well earned rest.

After lunch we would all give our horses a good groom before saddling up and setting off for another 2-3 hour ride before setting up camp for the night. The first night of camping was a real shock to us all; we were still in the mountains and clearly not prepared for how chilly it was going to be with the strong wind adding to the coldness. Most of the group knew how to set up their tents having camped before but I, for one, was a camping virgin so those of us who needed assistance were shown how to set up our tents once the horses were settled for the night. After a couple of nights in a tent I opted for sleeping under the stars which, although I was skeptical about at first, I would certainly recommend and would do again.

Every morning, lunchtime and evening we were served sweet mint tea which very quickly became a highlight of our camping experience. The meals consisted of salads, soups, meat dishes, flat bread, hummus and they never failed to disappoint. Breakfasts were also excellent consisting of eggs, bread, cheese, jam, fresh fruit and cake (my personal favourite breakfast choice!). Wine and beer are also available for an additional cost at meal times.

In the following days, after crossing the highway into Wadi Rum, the scenery was absolutely breathtaking. There were many opportunities in the desert for long trots and canters and for a faster canter/gallop we went one at a time so that we all stayed in control of our horses. This also increased the confidence of the less experienced riders no end.

Rami showed us the main highlights of Wadi Rum including Burrah Canyon, Burrah Bridge, Um Frouth Bridge, Lawrence of Arabia’s house and many ancient inscriptions. We camped every night in pleasant cove like areas which kept us far warmer than on the first night!

Days four and five of the ride are in the protected area of Wadi Rum. This involves a change of vehicles to the ones that are used as back-up vehicles in previous days as general vehicles are not allowed to enter this area. This is no problem for the team who are happy to transfer all your belongings from one truck to the other.

On the final evening of camping in the desert it was one of the rider’s birthdays. She only let us in on this fact early that evening so the support team quickly transformed the typical breakfast cake into a birthday cake for her and provided us all with red and white wine which was a truly lovely touch. The next day we were all very excited to be staying at the Oasis Desert Camp, the thought of showers was almost heavenly! Before arriving at the camp Rami allowed us all to have a good long final gallop or even a race if we wanted which was the perfect end to our riding experience. Rami also allowed me to swap horses with him on this final riding day which I greatly appreciated having admired his beautiful horse all week. We said a sad farewell to our horses this evening, who had been very good to us, before heading into the campsite. The Desert Camp was by no means luxurious but it was great to be able to wash away the sand and enjoy a real bed for the night. There was also the added entertainment of music and dancing all evening and the buffet dinner was absolutely amazing.

In the morning we were picked up and driven to the 5* Marriott Hotel at the Dead Sea and this was certainly the nicest hotel I have ever stayed in. After checking in we all headed out to float in the Dead Sea which, although a rather surreal sensation, really only requires one short visit. It is definitely worth noting that after a week of “roughing it” your attention will soon be drawn to even the most minor of cuts and scrapes by the extremely salty water! Our driver kindly offered to drive us to a local shop for some souvenir shopping before dinner that evening. The hotel contains a fabulous spa for those wishing to relax or for an additional cost massages can be booked.

This trip is an absolute must although I would certainly recommend spending extra nights in Petra. The hosts are kind, genuinely caring people who go that extra mile to make sure you have a memorable trip. Nothing is ever too much trouble. Rami and Jessica have a large selection of quality horses who are very fit and well cared for. The whole back up team do an absolutely fantastic job of taking care of the guests needs. Put this together with fantastic scenery, great weather, delicious food and unbeatable organisation and you have the trip of a lifetime.”

If you would like to read some more about this spectacular ride then please click here: Petra Trails, Jordan.

Holly Anthony, Far and Ride.

Holly recently went on a long riding weekend in Wales, accompanied by several clients, in the beauty of the Brecon Beacons in Wales. Wales is known for offering interesting riding terrain and has become famous for pony trekking, though what you will find at Far and Ride’s Welsh destination are not ploddy ponies but forward-going Welsh cobs, many of whom are home-bred. The farm offers day rides, week stays (riding out from the farmhouse each day) or a point to point trail covering almost the length and breadth of Wales. Novice to experienced riders can be accommodated here and the herd of horses is an absolute delight to see as they roam the fields.

A weekend riding holiday here is a great option for those who don’t have the time or budget to travel too far but who still want to enjoy some adventurous riding amidst stunning scenery. Wales isn’t famed for its great weather but Holly’s group experienced a beautiful Saturday and Sunday (Holly wore just a t-shirt on the Sunday which is fair enough for mid October!) and just a bit of rain on the Monday afternoon. They ride whatever the weather so provided you take a raincoat and a sense of adventure then it won’t dampen your enthusiasm for the experience.

The farmhouse offers clean and comfortable accommodation, though you will find the décor quite old-fashioned (but this really adds to the spirit of the place!) with some quirky aspects. The sitting room is laden with cosy sheepskins and an open fireplace, as well as a variety of horse-related paraphernalia to catch your eye. Maria provides tasty home-cooked meals, some in Bavarian style as that is where she is from, and the food is plentiful. Breakfasts involve cereal, fruit, yoghurt, toast and often meat and cheese in continental style. Sunday was a hearty cooked breakfast and delightfully guilt-free given that the day was spent in the saddle! The riding days involve pub lunches and then tea and biscuits on return to the farmhouse… you should be prepared for the fact that riding makes you hungry and if you’re anything like Holly, you will consume at least seven biscuits at each sitting.

Guests here should be prepared to get properly stuck in – all are expected to catch their horse from the field, groom, tack up and clean the tack after each use. The hosts are meticulous in their organisation of this but provide great explanation as to how they do things and this makes life much simpler for everyone involved. It’s a super destination for people that want the chance to bond with their horse before they ride them and the care of the equipment means that it is all in lovely condition, comfortable for both horse and rider. Riders mount from blocks in the yard and groups can be split when necessary to accommodate different riding abilities or to keep sizes to a manageable number – during Holly’s visit there were ten riders and these were split into two groups which worked perfectly. The number of horses available means that changing horses is simple should you need to, though all were safe and sensible. Just two riders swapped during the weekend and both were happy with their second choice, finding them that little bit whizzier than their first mounts. Horses were all in great condition with nice temperaments – even Eddie the stallion was calm to handle and a sensible ride.

Holly has written a description of the weekend to give people an idea of what they can expect:

“Myself and the other guests arrived on Friday evening, some in time for dinner whilst others were delayed during their travel from London. Paul, the “main man” so to speak asked each guest to fill out a form and then he ran through a variety of points including yard rules, number one of which is “don’t fall off” (a rule which none of us broke!). After some socialising in the sitting room, it was time to hit the goose-down duvets for our first night in Wales… the rooms were dark (thick curtains!), quiet and delightfully peaceful. After breakfast we met outside on the picnic benches, having wriggled into our jods, before following Paul to the yard where we were designated our horses and then went off up to the field to fetch them. I was given the lovely Lord, a five year old gelding who had only been in work a short while. As Lord and the others stood tied on the yard we were given a thorough explanation of their grooming methods and the way they like to tack up here – I always find that this is more than welcome as a lot of people have different ways of doing things and it’s nice to know what the hosts prefer and expect their guests to do. It’s also helpful to stick with what the horses are accustomed to and the time spent preparing them meant that we got to know them that bit better. The tack was in excellent condition and appeared well-fitted to the horses. Each horse was checked by the guide prior to being tacked up to ensure that there were no injuries or issues.

Once we were all sorted, it was time to mount and head off on our first adventure. The group split into two, one group going with Paul, and myself and the other ladies heading out with Trez. Each group went a different route and therefore stopped at a different pub. Trez was an excellent guide, always clear in her signals to us, friendly and helpful, and she rode Viking who appeared to be a great lead horse. We enjoyed riding along quiet country lanes, across the moors to see beautiful views and along wobbly paths lined with ferns. We stopped at the Farmers Arms for a tasty lunch of fishcakes, chips and salad… the pub being particularly quiet due to Wales’ defeat in the Rugby World Cup that morning (the landlord told us that everyone was at home crying). We had fun, speedy canters on the way home and Lord took excellent care of me, despite only being young himself. He was responsive and sure-footed and I felt safe but exhilarated. The sun shone on us as we returned to the farm, sponged the horses down and let them loose in the field to see them enjoy a well-deserved roll. Once we’d cleaned the tack and put things away it was time for tea and biscuit-scoffing before some relaxation prior to dinner. Turkey schnitzel, dauphinoise potatoes and salad, followed by baked apples. We settled down in the sitting room for a spot of X-Factor viewing but none of us managed to stay up late as the riding had worn us out!

Sunday was the same layout but the two riding groups switched routes – Trez led the other group to the Farmers Arms and we went with Emelie who was riding the rather speedy Mr Pugh! Emelie was wonderful company, making plenty of conversation, but was also responsible ensuring that we were all alright with our horses. Pugh certainly set a good pace for us! We stopped at the Red Lion for baguettes and tasty chips (or in Chris’ case… just a big dessert instead!) whilst the horses stood quietly parked in bays in the car park. During each stop the horses had their bridles removed and girths loosened so that they could rest their mouths and tummies. During the afternoon we did some serious climbing (standing in the stirrups is great for burning chip calories!) and the horses took us high up to catch beautiful views of the land around us. We stood for a while to let them catch their breath before we began our descent and our return to the farmhouse. Half the group was set to leave late that afternoon so after a final tea together we said a fond farewell to them and relaxed before our Sunday roast dinner and another peaceful evening.

Monday was our final day of riding and I rode Eddie the stallion. Lord had done me proud the days before but it was hard work for a youngster, especially one so willing, whereas Eddie needed the exercise and was happy to get out and about. Although people like to think of stallions as being somewhat wild and uncontrollable, “Steady Eddie” was quiet to handle, well behaved and a sensible ride. He was quite happy at the back and even though we had two mares on the ride, he behaved like the perfect gent. He was true to his nickname and offered a steady ride, but still kept up during the lovely canters and I enjoyed riding him. He was also rather handsome and devoted to his truest love, a beautiful mare called Nicole, and their foal Bob! Paul was our guide for the day and he did a fine job, as you’d expect, moving back and forth between the ride ensuring everyone was OK and making an effort to chat with us all. We enjoyed another lovely lunch and were joined by Emily who fell in love with Paul during a riding weekend here in 2007. Their children, Nye and Nesta, came along too and Nye helped us eat the sandwiches and, of course, more yummy chips. Despite the fact that Neptune didn’t want to remain tied up in the car park, far preferring to munch on the surrounding trees, the horses were patient as they waited for us to come back outside. The afternoon saw us ride more hilly paths at a fun but controlled canter, sometimes leaping the odd little ditch (depending on your horse – less experienced riders are given horses happy to trundle through any ditches!). We crossed open fields of sheep, meandered through the ferns and enjoyed wandering past remote farms or through pretty villages. Although we spent quite a bit of time on country lanes, there was rarely a vehicle passing and we could ride alongside each other and in any order. Raincoats were needed for the afternoon but we all returned to the farmhouse with smiles on our faces and some great riding behind us.

We sat down together for the last time and were joined by Paul and Nye and Paul’s parents, Mike and Maria. As we chatted about our day and slowly demolished their biscuit supply, we realized it was time to pack and head home to our normal lives… which unfortunately, for most of us, are not set in a beautiful valley in Brecon Beacons National Park where a herd of super Welsh cobs await their next riders. I guess that’s what made this wonderful weekend such a treat!”

Riding weekends here are running throughout November and beyond so please do get in touch if you’re up for an affordable, hands-on riding holiday with willing horses, great guides, cosy accommodation and tasty home-cooked food. In the words of one lady who joined Holly for the weekend – “Great weather, good company, beautiful location, lovely horses, tasty food, welcoming hosts – what more can I say.”

Prices start from as little as £250 per person for two nights of accommodation, two days of trail riding and all meals.

To read more about this ride: Brecon Beacons and Beyond, Wales.

Provence, France, 2011.

Sue Maling.

On 25th September 2011, Sue Maling and her husband Jon joined the Trail in the Camargue from our riding destination in Provence, France. This is a six night trail that takes you from the Provençal mountains of the Luberon, across Van Gogh’s hills “Les Alpilles”, and to the Mediterranean Sea. The trail will take you to the famous Camargue, the land of flamingoes, black bulls and white horses.

Thanks to Sue and Jon for sharing their thoughts and photos with us. Below is Sue’s report on the trail:

“Fresh back from Provence it’s hard to get back to the British way of life again, I’d just relaxed into French speed. We arrived in France to a heatwave of 28-30C which lasted the week and sunbathing on the 1st of October whilst waiting for the flight home helped take the edge off having to leave. Marseille is actually nowhere near as flat as I thought, the town is surrounded by hills, and we headed into the Luberon range to Didier’s farm. It’s not a long journey, just over an hour, but you go from the fast toll roads to tiny winding roads near the farm and it seemed so remote. We settled into our rooms in the woods and chatted by the horses’ fields before dinner, trying to guess who we would ride. I joked that I love black geldings and would likely get a grey mare as I have done on several rides….and I did!

The chef at Didier’s place is a real character and he entertained us all on the first and last night. We met our guide, Jean-Francois or J-F for short…which he pronounced ‘Jeff’ and that certainly stuck all week. He chatted to us about what type of horse we would like and I think he chose extremely well, people who wanted a steady horse had exactly that, not dull or flat but forward-going and rhythmic which is very helpful if someone has low confidence. We were a group comprising of seven Swedish ladies, two Brits and a German couple. Some had their own horses at home and had done many trail rides before whilst others were on their first trail, so JF’s job was cut out for him.  I think everyone was happy the next day, including me with my lovely grey mare who was Arab-Barb cross Spanish – ‘Esperanze’ had a long, keen stride and gentle nature. I was a bit worried that my ‘Welsh Cob’ trained hands courtesy of my own horse would be too harsh for her, although it probably did me good to relearn a sensitive ride and she was without fault all week.

We rode out of the farm and in no time were following some narrow, rocky paths with some low branches and a few drops to our right… so within the first hour you had learned that your horse was really reliable with good footing and wouldn’t rush the important bits (cue a deep sigh of relief on my part!). Jon was happy with his horse too, a tough call as he’d like a fast horse but doesn’t have the experience. He had a strong guy with big strides who was happy to go all day (another sigh of relief!). The little rocky paths meant mainly walk on the first day – you had plenty to do by navigating the paths and the branches so you never felt you needed to go faster and it gave you a real chance to get to know your horse.

Over the following three days we made our way through the limestone Luberon and Alpille ranges, full of fossils and attractive rock landscapes. The tracks got a little wider and softer, bit by bit, allowing for more trots and canters. JF did a great job, being really relaxed, and we could all ride wherever we wanted in the group and change at will to walk and trot beside each other where the paths were wide enough. There was no big deal about starting and stopping trots and canter which was lovely because the horses were keen without racing each other so you could really enjoy the scenery. We stopped in the woods for lunch – one day it was a rather amazing salad with cheeses afterwards and of course wine and a siesta. The next day it was a huge platter of hot chicken and baby ‘roast/saute’ potatoes straight from the back of our support van (I started to call our helper Merlin!) with of course cheeses and wine. Another day it was paella….cheeses and wine, they did warn us we wouldn’t lose weight!

The first night of the trail we stayed at a B&B with a pool in the woods, the horses in a paddock next to us… except two people needed to sleep a five minute walk away and those two people were us. It was a very pleasant walk to dinner… and a really spooky one home when I nearly turned into an open field instead of the right driveway – it was good weather but I wasn’t planning on open air camping that night! The dinners were all beautiful, many started with a tart of some sort which had really delicate flavours. The main courses always had a vegetable dish too, usually in a creamy sauce, very moreish. We had guinea fowl and beef which absolutely fell apart. Then when we hit the Camargue there was Camargue rice and bull stew at a Camargue horse stud farm, run by Brenda who moved there from Hertfordshire 40 years ago… now there’s another character! She no longer likes to speak English and is very proud of her Camargue horses and way of life. It started to feel a bit like Spain with flamenco type dresses and bull fight festivals on posters… although the rules here don’t allow the bull to be a fatality which is a relief. Traditionally the local horses are used for cutting the cattle and especially the bulls, like Western horses. There is a special type of saddle used by the local riders… and there are quite a few of those. It’s the only place I’ve been to where you find places with a bull in the garden.

This is a such a balanced trail in pace and scenery. We climbed rock, crossed the river Durance, under the TGV viaduct, tied the horses up in a vineyard for wine tasting and reached the rice fields leading to the sea. The difference between the rocky Alpille, full of fossils, and the mudflats of the Carmargue is quite stark. We rode to the pretty tourist village of Baux where we had some free time… well an hour (it was quite a schedule fitting everything into the day!) and from there both riders and horses had a transfer across what is now a busy road section. Many of us took advantage of the time for a quick snooze and I think maybe the horses did too. When we left Brenda’s the next day the going was flat and sandy, perfect for canters which built up to a good pace when we reached the open mud flats – great fun! Where we stayed that night had a really Spanish feel and we ate at Casa Romana where one of the options was bull steak. The next day we rode along the Mediterranean beach, cantering then stopping to splash in the sea. Esperanze wasn’t that keen on the waves at first but we cantered through them eventually. The beach had its typically Mediterranean ‘revealing’ sections (the ‘moon’ was out on one bit!) and also a protected section where the flamingos nest. We rode back through the dunes and shallows of brackish water, seeing hundreds of these pink flamingos sleeping, eating and flying. They are so interesting to watch and we were quite close at this time. We returned to Brenda in the afternoon via the sandy drains, all pretty exhausted by the end.

That night we helped to unload the horses from their transfer back to Didier’s and gave them their big bale of hay. We retired for a great last night’s entertainment with Didier’s team and the horses were still eating that hay next morning at breakfast, all looking very relaxed. It’s always sad to leave a place you have enjoyed so much and I did try to make room for Esperanze in my case, JF really chose really well. He’s an interesting guy and a really professional guide, always putting everyone at ease. He made sure all the horses were cared for at every stage. The tack was well fitting and endurance/trail type – it wasn’t new by a long shot but comfortable and safe… I guess a few stitches in a saddle seat is nothing our four-legged friends would worry about if the underside is just what they need for long days. Most horses do have some tender spots after a week’s trail but Esperanze had none, and I don’t think my backside was to credit for that! I also have to say I wasn’t in the least bit sore or stiff at all – quite a surprise for my (un)fitness level these days.

What a lovely week – I hope every trail is that much fun!”

Read more about the ride here: Provence, France.

Cefalu Trail, Sicily, 2011.

Sarah Ritchie, Far and Ride.

From the 3rd – 11th September 2011, Sarah from Far and Ride escorted the Cefalu Trail in Sicily. This is a fabulous scenic trail which takes you through four Sicilian Parks: the Madonie, Nebrodi, Etna and Alcantara. Below are Sarah’s thoughts on the trip:

“Upon arrival at the airport I was greeted by our host for the week, Giuseppe, before meeting the clients who were booked onto the ride. Unfortunately, two of the clients had problems with lost luggage so we had to spend some time at the airport in the hope their bags would turn up (after three days they eventually did appear!). Giuseppe had hired a minibus to drive us all to our first overnight stop, the fabulous Santa Anastasia, situated just outside the town of Cefalu. We made a brief stop in Palermo so that we could try some delicious ice cream in sweet bread, a traditional treat that Sicily is famed for. I would definitely recommend to anyone visiting Sicily to spend a day or two in Palermo as the city is rich in history, culture and architecture. One thing to watch out for though are the poor driving skills of the locals!

The surroundings of Santa Anastasia are beautiful and the rooms are spacious and nicely decorated. There is a lovely pool to relax by or for a refreshing swim. The restaurant has a nice atmosphere and the food was fresh and of superb quality, authentic Italian fare to tempt all visitors, and we especially enjoyed the wine from the property’s own vineyards! We enjoyed our first dinner together, discussed the trail and any questions that we had were answered. Giuseppe also gave us the opportunity to specify whether we would prefer to use English or Western style tack for the trail ride. Please note that a based stay with daily riding can be arranged from this hotel which is located approximately fifteen minutes away from Cefalu.

One thing I learnt very quickly about Sicily is that there is never any rush. When you are told breakfast is at 7.30, it is often at 8.30! This is a testament to their relaxed way of life. After breakfast it was time to meet the horses, who are kept just a short walk away from the hotel. We were suitably matched to our horses and introduced to our guide, Luciano. Luciano proved to be a fantastic guide, very responsible and caring when it came to guests as well as the horses. He always communicated well if we were about to pick up the pace or slow down. This first ride led us through forests, across vineyards, and amongst olive and ash trees which we were told were 1000 years old. There were many stops along the way for a welcome break and a chance for the horses to have a drink at local wells. The ride took us to the medieval town of Tusa, where we spent the night at Agriturismo Margiscammari. My horse, Topolina, had lost a shoe during the morning ride but not long after we arrived she was soon having a new set put on. We had dinner at a local restaurant a very short walk away – a varied dinner with a range of courses consisting of meats, cheeses, pasta and vegetables. Once again local wine was supplied to accompany the various foods.

The following morning, having enjoyed breakfast in the restaurant from the previous night, we set off toward the village of Mistretta. Two clients opted for afternoon riding only and so their horses accompanied the group, running loose along side us. They were more than happy with this they are always kept in a herd so there is little chance of them leaving the group. Today I tried a different horse, Giuseppe’s own, who I found to be forward-going and responsive. We stopped for a picnic lunch of ham and cheese rolls. Red wine (as well as soft drinks) was available at every picnic lunch in the coming week and these picnics consisted of fresh bread, cold meats, cheese and fresh fruit. The morning ride was a fast one with lots of gallops, whereas after lunch the riding pace was slower with steep and rocky terrain. This is normally the most scenic part of the itinerary but we were unlucky and couldn’t see much as it was very foggy that day! We arrived at the wonderful Agriturismo Santasofia, which was very peaceful and on the crown of a mountain which made for some fabulous views. We were shown to our rooms before dinner which was once again a huge feast of cold meats, cheese, bread, pasta, and vegetables, all hearty Italian ingredients.

The following two days were the longest and most tiring rides (54 km and 48 km). The terrain and surroundings were very varied and we rode through forests, along the top of mountains and on dirt tracks heading towards the town of Floresta. Again there were plenty of opportunities for galloping and along the way we came across some wild pigs and Sicilian “San Fratellani” horses. In Floresta you find yourself in the land of the Tholos with ancient buildings made by pastors with stone walls and straw roofs, and home to the most famous Sicilian Caciocavallo cheese. Clients can opt to witness this cheese being made locally if they wish. The small village is located on a plateau at 1300m, an area made up of wide pastures and dense forests with views of Etna in the distance.

When riding around Etna the landscape changes rather dramatically as the fertile volcanic soil supports extensive agriculture, with vineyards and orchards spread across the land. Much of Mount Etna’s surface is covered with oak, stone pine, birch and beech trees. The lower altitudes have shrubs, such as broom plant, whilst vineyards and olive groves are in abundance at the base of the volcano. Types of wildlife in the forests include foxes, weasels, squirrels, rabbits, porcupines, hedgehogs, some wild cats, snakes and lizards. We were told how during one eruption the lava swallowed up a huge cabin that housed snow ploughs, along with a tourist car park and several ski lift pylons. These have all since been rebuilt. We were shown the remains of a roof from what was once someone’s home, now completely buried in lava.

This trail is definitely one for the more adventurous and experienced rider as there are plenty of opportunities for faster riding and very long hours in the saddle (sometimes eight hours in a day). The horses are a mixture of Arabs, Anglo Arabs and Sicilian, all very responsive and sure-footed over the often tricky terrain. The horses are well cared for and have no problem with either the heat or the challenging parts of the ride. The accommodation throughout the trail is varied but always comfortable and pleasant with fabulous food being served at every stop (you will never go hungry in Sicily!). I would certainly recommend a certain level of fitness though as I found myself wishing I had done a bit more riding in preparation! The hosts are wonderful and go the extra mile to ensure that you get the most out of your trip. There is the option to fly into either Palermo or Catania airport where you will be met and dropped off unless you choose to make your own way. You haven’t seen Italy until you’ve been to Sicily!”

Read more about the ride here: Cefalu Trail, Sicily.

Great South Ranch, Morocco, 2011.

Holly Anthony, Far and Ride.

From 17th – 24th September 2011, Holly from Far and Ride joined five lovely ladies for a special week programme to Far and Ride’s Moroccan ranch. The week consisted of seven nights and six days of riding – three days of riding out from the ranch and a three-day trail ride through the mountains with two nights of camping. The programme also included extras such as dinner on the beach one night, Moroccan music performed by the staff, a spot of shopping in the local towns and some massages. Tailor made programmes like this can be designed for groups.

Below is Holly’s report on the week… it’s rather lengthy but there were too many good details to miss out! Many thanks to Holly (the other Holly!), Sonya, Katy, Liz and Jenny for joining the trip and to Maria for her great company and stories.

“OK, let’s go!”

Our journey from London Gatwick to Agadir on Saturday (via EasyJet) went smoothly, despite the failings of passport control in Agadir airport to work at any kind of pace. I managed to be the last person through, at which point the man at the desk looked at my boarding card and said, “You work for a travel agency? And you are the last one! Haha!” We moved on to change our money at the Bureau de Change and had to queue for some time (due to the fact the people in front appeared to be changing millions of pounds), but our driver understood what we were doing and waited patiently for us in the arrivals area. Importing and exporting the Moroccan Dirham is prohibited but it appears that there are many ways to source the currency in your home country (though we recommend you follow the guidelines!). The transfer to the ranch was approximately two hours and by the time we got there, we were tired and hungry, although the flight itself was only around four hours. We were greeted by Kamal, Lahcen, Taofik and Yousef and they were all cheery and eager to help carry our luggage to our rooms. The manager of the ranch, Leila, designated rooms and we dropped off our things before heading to the dining area.

Although rather too tired to fully appreciate it, our first meal was a sign of things to come. It began with a fresh salad of tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers with bread, followed by a tasty chicken tagine and finished with ripe plums. Bottled water is included at all meals and we were given bottles to take to our rooms as well. The rooms themselves were bright, clean and comfortable with en suite shower rooms (designed as wet rooms) and towels provided. The rooms are simple (there is no air conditioning and the hot water is run from gas canisters so it fluctuates) but welcoming with good-sized windows to open and let in the fresh air. Each room has two single beds that can be pushed together to create a double bed. There are lovely touches such as framed photos of the horses and pieces of local pottery scattered through the rooms and around the ranch. By my bed was a beautiful photo of Tamazirt, a fine Arab-Barb mare, who would turn out to be my ride for the week.

On the Sunday morning we met Maria, a friendly Swedish lady who would complete our group. Breakfast was bread with butter, jams, honey, cheese and dates. Coffee and fresh orange juice was provided. It was then time to wriggle into our jodhpurs and begin our Moroccan riding adventure! Our first experience of riding from the ranch was a tour of a few hours including climbing the side of a nearby mountain and then riding along the beach. We were all able to prepare our own horses and they were in good condition, well fed but fit and lean, with strong feet and excellent shoes. Many bear the scars of their previous homes and although they work hard at the ranch, they are treated with care and appear to have kept their spirits in tact! The tack was adequate and generally well cared for, with the bits washed after every use, and the horses were hosed down after each ride out. We mounted in the ménage (blocks available) and walked around to get used to the horses and for the staff to put us in a suitable order. The initial horse and rider partnerships needed some tweaking in a few cases and it’s fair to say that our first taste of speed on the beach was disorderly – the horses knew this was our first day and were keen. Having said that, none of the horses disappeared into the distance and by our second ride that day, we were already getting the hang of them and were really beginning to enjoy our beautiful new surroundings. I loved my horse for the week, Tamazirt, who could offer a turn of speed whilst remaining controllable and steady. She was careful on mountain paths and had great stamina… also very pretty!

Throughout the week the horses showed great willingness and sure-footedness and when not gearing up to canter, could be ridden on a nice long rein. When it came to canters and gallops, most, if not all, were strong and eager (especially on the beach) but we were instructed to keep in line and in order and this worked out well. I appreciated their spirit as it showed an enjoyment in what they were doing and all were safe… I think it’s fair to say that we all came to love our new four-legged friends. People are often worried when travelling to Morocco and other North African countries for horse riding, fearing that the horses may be underfed or mistreated, but this is not the case here. They are without doubt working animals but attention is paid to their needs.

Our guide for the week, Lahcen, was safety conscious but fun, always looking back to make sure we were OK and increasing the speed when everyone looked comfortable. He also offered helpful tips and signalled each change of speed (both up and down) and his calls of “OK, let’s go!” were met with readiness. One day we took an evening ride and cantered down the beach in the dark with just the starlight and a few head torches to guide our way – although nerve-wracking at first, this was a truly special experience and we were followed by Yousef at the back to make sure that nobody was left behind. In fact, Kassette, the ranch dog, also joined us for this ride and took real delight in charging through the waves next to us. It should be noted that the guides and staff speak limited English, although Lahcen’s was easily adequate for guiding us, and the majority of the guests are French so visitors to the ranch need to be open-minded about socialising with a mostly French-speaking group. For this reason, I would not recommend it for single travellers who do not speak fairly competent French, though pairs or groups are fine if willing to share the simple pleasantries such as “bonjour!” and “ça va?” with others at the ranch and with the locals that they meet (part of the fun!).

During the rides we encountered ladies tending to their sheep and lambs, men climbing mountains on their donkeys whilst laden with crops, fisherman and even one cheery fellow out for a run. The locals were friendly and answered our greetings and the children took great delight in running after us calling “bonjour madame!” When not in the saddle we were able to visit the local swimming pool and jacuzzis, enjoy massages at the ranch and do a bit of shopping in the nearby towns of Sidi Ifni and Mirleft. Leila accompanied us to help with the haggling and bought us mint tea and Moroccan style doughnuts. Our taxi driver greatly enjoyed learning the word ‘bee’ as we passed the local hives that were spread across the mountainsides and we were able to see the beautiful beach at Legzira, a more swimmer-friendly beach than that near the ranch where the currents can be very strong (but OK for paddling in the shallows). We also had dinner on the beach one night, after which the team played some Moroccan music for us under the stars.

Our three day trail ride was Wednesday – Friday with two nights of camping and a return to the ranch for a final night on Friday before our Saturday departure. The trail involved long days, sometimes up to seven hours of riding, and allowed us to see more of the real Morocco beyond the pretty beaches and ranch surroundings. We passed through small villages, along paths lined with olive and fig trees, where the land was irrigated to allow crops to grow, and we crossed ancient, dry riverbeds as we meandered through the dust. We cantered through the desert, climbed steep mountain roads (standing in the stirrups is a good workout!) and saw beautiful views across the land. On the Wednesday we stopped for lunch in a cave that had been made into a little sitting/dining room and were served grilled fish that the owner of the home had caught himself. The horses were tied to a long line and had their bridles removed and girths loosened before being watered and fed nutritious green hay, enough to last them the time that we were eating our lunch and relaxing out of the sun. Our evening campsites were well organised with several two-person tents and a large dining tent with a table, cushions and chairs. From the truck hung a ‘sun shower’ that is designed to heat up in the sun throughout the day. The team erected a shower tent around this so that people could rinse themselves off after their day in the saddle (the water didn’t get very warm but people were glad to get clean!). Water, coke, mint tea and salted nuts awaited us and Hamid was there to freshly prepare our dinner. The horses were always dealt with first – untacked, fed and watered, having a hard feed as well as their hay. We washed the bits and then were able to peel off our less than fresh riding gear and get into something more comfortable… and clean!

The Thursday was very hot but a long, leisurely lunch stop with plenty of water and my favourite ‘Hawai Tropicale’ saw us through the afternoon. Leila and her partner, René, came out to the campsite to meet us that evening and we were treated with Leila’s delicious apple cake (to which Sonya simply said “MORE CAKE!”). On the Friday morning we paused for a few group photos before mounting and riding into the village to water the horses at a nearby well. Some local boys helped us and in return, Lahcen let them sit on his horse, Ifoulki, as a treat – a kind gesture and an example of the nature of the staff here. We then rode through a town to meet some local women who make huile d’argan, oil made from the nuts of the Argan tree which is endemic to certain parts of Morocco. This oil can be used in cooking and cosmetics (rich in vitamin E so lovely for the hair and skin!) and we were treated to delicious snacks and more mint tea. Before we left, the ladies mixed up some henna to put on the horses, a tradition to bring good luck that the horses didn’t seem to mind. On arrival back at the ranch for our final night, the horses enjoyed a well-deserved rinse with the hose before having a kind of mud poultice applied to their legs to help relieve the tired muscles. The stables were clean and stocked with hard feed, hay and water ready for them. As for us, we were all eager to get showered (Leila had washed our towels for us) and the ladies could begin their one-hour massages before dinner. Everyone was happy to be clean and enjoyed a glass of wine and a lot of laughter that evening, along with the company of the guys who joined us for a while before our meal. René was out on the BBQ, grilling fish and tomatoes that we had with rice (yum!), followed by a birthday cake for Liz.

On our final day we enjoyed a last breakfast before saying a sad goodbye to Liz and Maria, who had different departure times, and most of the staff. Hamid and Yousef packed up the truck and we loaded our luggage into a minivan before heading out for a final lunch. Our lunch spot turned out to offer spectacular views over a large reservoir one side and across the Sahara desert on the other. We sat with an elderly Moroccan man for lunch and he wrapped our heads in scarves he had made and served us the final mint tea of our trip. He was also very eager to show that he could still get his foot behind his head! We paid him for the scarves and departed for the airport, stopping for a tour at a pottery factory where we were able to purchase beautiful handmade goods, trying desperately to cram them into our luggage for the trip home. Soon we were back on a plane (well, after a delay of course!) leaving being the beautiful ranch, the honest horses and new friends.

Riding in Morocco was made particularly special by the staff at this destination, all of who were extremely hardworking, cheerful and good at their jobs. Add in the lovely horses, the surroundings, the good weather, the delicious Moroccan fare and all the little extras and it was certainly a week not to be forgotten. The ranch run a full week trail programme or you can enjoy a ranch based stay, riding out once or twice a day leaving time for other activities or simply relaxation. A combination of the two, such as our week there, allows for great beach riding and extras whilst offering you the chance to explore further a field during the trail. Special group packages can easily be created to suit your needs. Don’t hesitate to get in touch so that we can arrange your Moroccan adventure!

Read more about the ride here: Great South Ranch, Morocco.

Ranch Hotel, Turkey, 2011, Jess Rogers.

On arrival at the airport we knew we were in for an extreme week, having stepped off the plane into 40+ degree heat! Having found our transfer (after a short delay) we were on our way to the ranch and reached our final destination in just over an hour, having admired the sea view and stunning coastal roads along the way. First impressions of the ranch were lovely; its location is nestled in the mountains beside the twin peak rocks and is so peaceful (apart from the occasional neighing horse!).

On reaching the hotel we were welcomed warmly and shown to our room with complementary cocktails and fruits, which were very welcome after the long journey from England. The rooms are simply furnished but very clean and – most importantly – have an excellent air conditioning system which offers relief from the baking sun. The facilities at the ranch were very good, with a lovely pool, which even in high summer wasn’t crowded, and everything you could wish for is provided. Equally the food is very good, with the chance to sample some Turkish dishes and you certainly won’t go hungry with five different courses!

Now to the most important aspect – the horses. The stables are clean and tidy and the horses are friendly, if a little nervous. Most of the horses there are Arab types, as was my horse for the week, Ozan. Ozan was so sweet and I absolutely fell in love with him during the week! He was very responsive, very forward going and happy to soften to your hand. The riding was some of the best (and the most exciting) I have ever experienced, it’s certainly not for the faint hearted as my first ride out proved – following a quick trial in the ménage to ensure both rider and horse were happy – myself and Metin (the wonderful guide) headed out into the mountains where we galloped flat out up the mountain side, ‘chasing’ the quad bikes that also head out into the mountains. When we finally pulled up I was breathless and invigorated, having realised this would be a holiday to remember. And so I spent the next few days riding out with Metin on my own or sometimes with other guests but the biggest group I ever went out in was five which was brilliant as it meant the riding was tailored to my ability and desires. (And equally for those who wished to go slower there were alternative rides). One of the other guides commented to me that it was ‘extreme riding’ and I had to agree with him as we climbed steep rock faces, dived in and out of shrubs and galloped up stony mountain sides with a rock face to one side of you and a sheer drop to the other – I have to say it’s a moment I will remember (and cherish) forever.

On one day our guide took myself and a French lady to the beach to swim with the horses, which was absolutely amazing. We were up and ready to ride out a 6am and having threaded our way down the mountain side we finally reached our destination where we had breakfast on the beach followed by riding the horses bareback into the sea. It was an absolute highlight of the trip and the gallop back up the mountain was almost as good!

The guides – Metin especially – made a real effort to show me different things such as the mountain cave we visited one evening. Metin also taught me how to ask the horse to rear on his hind legs which was such fun (although I don’t think I’ll be trying it on the horses back home!).

The people in Turkey generally are very friendly, although it’s certainly not a place to visit if you expect to meet lots of other English guests and to be spoken to in perfect English. We were the only English guests at the ranch but the staff always made an effort to speak English although for many of them it’s very basic. The location of the ranch although isolated in a sense that you can’t walk anywhere, is only a 10 minute car journey to the town of Kemer and the beach (note: it is a pebble beach so a top tip is to wear your flip-flops into the water as the pebbles get very hot and we – and our burnt feet – learnt the hard way!) There is also free ranch shuttle bus to the town and beach daily which is very useful. There’s also lots to do in Kemer such as boat rides, shopping, quad bikes and jeep safari (which I would definitely recommend, it was a brilliant day out). However this holiday’s greatest attraction has to be the riding and fantastic guides which made it a truly wonderful week. I would definitely encourage anyone to visit here and doubt you could fail to fall in love with the horses and the people. If I have one regret it’s that one week was not enough!

Read more about this ride here: Ranch Hotel, Turkey.