Petra Trails, Jordan, 2011

Sarah Ritchie, Far and Ride.

From 3rd – 12th November 2011, Sarah from Far and Ride escorted a ten day Petra to Wadi Rum tour in Jordan. The tour consisted of three nights in hotels, five nights camping and one night in a permanent desert camp. There were six days of riding, a visit to Petra and a visit to the Dead Sea. Tailor made programmes can be designed for groups wishing to spend longer exploring Jordan.

Below is Sarah’s report on the week…

“I arranged to meet Far and Ride clients Karl, Ann and Emma at Heathrow Airport before our departure so after a brief coffee we headed to our boarding gate and we were off. The flight to Amman took approximately five hours and as soon as we arrived we were met by an Airport Representative who was there to assist us in obtaining our visas. This proved to be a very fast and easy process followed by a driver waiting for us as soon as we had collected our baggage. I do recommend having Jordanian Dinars to hand though as the ATM in arrivals was empty. We waited a very short time for another rider to arrive on a flight from Paris before setting off to our hotel in Amman for the evening. We were all handed our welcome packs containing information on Petra and Wadi Rum along with our weekly programme detailing each day.

We were driven to the Larsa hotel in Amman for our dinner and overnight stay. The buffet dinner consisted of various salads, chicken and beef dishes, pasta and a variety of delicious desserts.

In the morning after a breakfast buffet of eggs, flat bread, cereals, fruit, tea, coffee and juice we were picked up and driven to Petra via the Desert Highway. The drive takes approximately three hours and it soon became apparent that, generally speaking, people in Jordan do not drive very sensibly! Nevertheless we made it in one piece after a brief stop en route to admire the views over Wadi Musa and checked into the Petra Palace Hotel. Jessica and her assistant manager Areej were already there and waiting to greet us. We all had more of a chance to introduce ourselves to each other as some of the riders had arrived very late the previous night. We were a rather large group of fourteen – thirteen ladies and Karl (he never complained about this!). We took the short walk to the entrance of Petra and were met by our experienced private guide for our three hour tour.

There are various options once you have entered Petra of how you wish to travel; by foot, by camel, by horse, by donkey or in a horse and carriage. Most of the group opted to stay on our feet knowing we had many hours of riding to follow in the coming week. Although I had seen many photos of Petra I think we were all in agreement that it has to be seen to be fully appreciated. The whole ancient city is far greater than I anticipated and it seemed as though you could explore this archaeological treasure for days. Our guide was superb; friendly, passionate and informative. We were introduced to the famous Treasury as well as the old amphitheatre and various other tombs. It felt as though we had stepped back in time.

We stopped for lunch at the Basin restaurant in Petra; another huge buffet meal of salads, meats, vegetables and many desserts before wandering back to the hotel at our own leisure. Unfortunately at this time of year the sun sets at around 5pm and we would have all loved to have spent more time in Petra. One of the riders opted for a camel ride on the way back and I was almost tempted myself but I decided it didn’t look as comfortable as horseback!

Several of the riders chose to visit the newly installed Turkish bath at the hotel that evening where guests can enjoy a body scrub, massage, steam room and jacuzzi all for around 20 Jordanian Dinars. After yet another buffet dinner (we ate very well on this trip!) Rami came to visit the group to introduce himself, discuss the tour and answer any questions we had. He quizzed us each individually about our riding experience and the type of horse we would like to ride and handed each of us a Jordanian scarf (Kafihe).

The next morning we were driven in several taxis to the stables of Jessica and Rami where the horses were saddled and waiting for us. Rami carefully matched us all to our horses before splitting the group into two smaller groups to begin our adventure. Rami did a fantastic job of matching us to suitable horses. I completely fell in love with mine on the first day, a handsome, charismatic Anglo Arab gelding. There were quieter horses available for the less experienced and less confident riders as well as many spare horses in case any needed to be swapped during the tour.

Rami individually checked every rider was happy with her, or in Karl’s case, his mount once we were on the trail and he proved to be a fantastic guide. We were made to feel very well looked after and safe. He was always checking on every member of the group and always alerting us all clearly before any change in pace. We also had one of his dogs joining us for the entire ride (this was not planned!) although we never did find out his name so he was known by all simply as “dog”.

The morning ride was a steady and mountainous one with fabulous views of Petra. It wasn’t long before several Bedouin families were coming over to wave and say hello as we rode past. We stopped for lunch after around 3 hours, tended to our horses before tucking in to a delicious lunch with hot and cold drinks. There were two support vehicles with us the whole way transporting our luggage, food and drink supplies, mattresses and tents. I have no idea how they managed to cram so much stuff onto the two trucks but we were certainly never short of supplies. At every lunch stop the horses were untacked, watered and fed and given time to take a well earned rest.

After lunch we would all give our horses a good groom before saddling up and setting off for another 2-3 hour ride before setting up camp for the night. The first night of camping was a real shock to us all; we were still in the mountains and clearly not prepared for how chilly it was going to be with the strong wind adding to the coldness. Most of the group knew how to set up their tents having camped before but I, for one, was a camping virgin so those of us who needed assistance were shown how to set up our tents once the horses were settled for the night. After a couple of nights in a tent I opted for sleeping under the stars which, although I was skeptical about at first, I would certainly recommend and would do again.

Every morning, lunchtime and evening we were served sweet mint tea which very quickly became a highlight of our camping experience. The meals consisted of salads, soups, meat dishes, flat bread, hummus and they never failed to disappoint. Breakfasts were also excellent consisting of eggs, bread, cheese, jam, fresh fruit and cake (my personal favourite breakfast choice!). Wine and beer are also available for an additional cost at meal times.

In the following days, after crossing the highway into Wadi Rum, the scenery was absolutely breathtaking. There were many opportunities in the desert for long trots and canters and for a faster canter/gallop we went one at a time so that we all stayed in control of our horses. This also increased the confidence of the less experienced riders no end.

Rami showed us the main highlights of Wadi Rum including Burrah Canyon, Burrah Bridge, Um Frouth Bridge, Lawrence of Arabia’s house and many ancient inscriptions. We camped every night in pleasant cove like areas which kept us far warmer than on the first night!

Days four and five of the ride are in the protected area of Wadi Rum. This involves a change of vehicles to the ones that are used as back-up vehicles in previous days as general vehicles are not allowed to enter this area. This is no problem for the team who are happy to transfer all your belongings from one truck to the other.

On the final evening of camping in the desert it was one of the rider’s birthdays. She only let us in on this fact early that evening so the support team quickly transformed the typical breakfast cake into a birthday cake for her and provided us all with red and white wine which was a truly lovely touch. The next day we were all very excited to be staying at the Oasis Desert Camp, the thought of showers was almost heavenly! Before arriving at the camp Rami allowed us all to have a good long final gallop or even a race if we wanted which was the perfect end to our riding experience. Rami also allowed me to swap horses with him on this final riding day which I greatly appreciated having admired his beautiful horse all week. We said a sad farewell to our horses this evening, who had been very good to us, before heading into the campsite. The Desert Camp was by no means luxurious but it was great to be able to wash away the sand and enjoy a real bed for the night. There was also the added entertainment of music and dancing all evening and the buffet dinner was absolutely amazing.

In the morning we were picked up and driven to the 5* Marriott Hotel at the Dead Sea and this was certainly the nicest hotel I have ever stayed in. After checking in we all headed out to float in the Dead Sea which, although a rather surreal sensation, really only requires one short visit. It is definitely worth noting that after a week of “roughing it” your attention will soon be drawn to even the most minor of cuts and scrapes by the extremely salty water! Our driver kindly offered to drive us to a local shop for some souvenir shopping before dinner that evening. The hotel contains a fabulous spa for those wishing to relax or for an additional cost massages can be booked.

This trip is an absolute must although I would certainly recommend spending extra nights in Petra. The hosts are kind, genuinely caring people who go that extra mile to make sure you have a memorable trip. Nothing is ever too much trouble. Rami and Jessica have a large selection of quality horses who are very fit and well cared for. The whole back up team do an absolutely fantastic job of taking care of the guests needs. Put this together with fantastic scenery, great weather, delicious food and unbeatable organisation and you have the trip of a lifetime.”

If you would like to read some more about this spectacular ride then please click here: Petra Trails, Jordan.

Holly Anthony, Far and Ride.

Holly recently went on a long riding weekend in Wales, accompanied by several clients, in the beauty of the Brecon Beacons in Wales. Wales is known for offering interesting riding terrain and has become famous for pony trekking, though what you will find at Far and Ride’s Welsh destination are not ploddy ponies but forward-going Welsh cobs, many of whom are home-bred. The farm offers day rides, week stays (riding out from the farmhouse each day) or a point to point trail covering almost the length and breadth of Wales. Novice to experienced riders can be accommodated here and the herd of horses is an absolute delight to see as they roam the fields.

A weekend riding holiday here is a great option for those who don’t have the time or budget to travel too far but who still want to enjoy some adventurous riding amidst stunning scenery. Wales isn’t famed for its great weather but Holly’s group experienced a beautiful Saturday and Sunday (Holly wore just a t-shirt on the Sunday which is fair enough for mid October!) and just a bit of rain on the Monday afternoon. They ride whatever the weather so provided you take a raincoat and a sense of adventure then it won’t dampen your enthusiasm for the experience.

The farmhouse offers clean and comfortable accommodation, though you will find the décor quite old-fashioned (but this really adds to the spirit of the place!) with some quirky aspects. The sitting room is laden with cosy sheepskins and an open fireplace, as well as a variety of horse-related paraphernalia to catch your eye. Maria provides tasty home-cooked meals, some in Bavarian style as that is where she is from, and the food is plentiful. Breakfasts involve cereal, fruit, yoghurt, toast and often meat and cheese in continental style. Sunday was a hearty cooked breakfast and delightfully guilt-free given that the day was spent in the saddle! The riding days involve pub lunches and then tea and biscuits on return to the farmhouse… you should be prepared for the fact that riding makes you hungry and if you’re anything like Holly, you will consume at least seven biscuits at each sitting.

Guests here should be prepared to get properly stuck in – all are expected to catch their horse from the field, groom, tack up and clean the tack after each use. The hosts are meticulous in their organisation of this but provide great explanation as to how they do things and this makes life much simpler for everyone involved. It’s a super destination for people that want the chance to bond with their horse before they ride them and the care of the equipment means that it is all in lovely condition, comfortable for both horse and rider. Riders mount from blocks in the yard and groups can be split when necessary to accommodate different riding abilities or to keep sizes to a manageable number – during Holly’s visit there were ten riders and these were split into two groups which worked perfectly. The number of horses available means that changing horses is simple should you need to, though all were safe and sensible. Just two riders swapped during the weekend and both were happy with their second choice, finding them that little bit whizzier than their first mounts. Horses were all in great condition with nice temperaments – even Eddie the stallion was calm to handle and a sensible ride.

Holly has written a description of the weekend to give people an idea of what they can expect:

“Myself and the other guests arrived on Friday evening, some in time for dinner whilst others were delayed during their travel from London. Paul, the “main man” so to speak asked each guest to fill out a form and then he ran through a variety of points including yard rules, number one of which is “don’t fall off” (a rule which none of us broke!). After some socialising in the sitting room, it was time to hit the goose-down duvets for our first night in Wales… the rooms were dark (thick curtains!), quiet and delightfully peaceful. After breakfast we met outside on the picnic benches, having wriggled into our jods, before following Paul to the yard where we were designated our horses and then went off up to the field to fetch them. I was given the lovely Lord, a five year old gelding who had only been in work a short while. As Lord and the others stood tied on the yard we were given a thorough explanation of their grooming methods and the way they like to tack up here – I always find that this is more than welcome as a lot of people have different ways of doing things and it’s nice to know what the hosts prefer and expect their guests to do. It’s also helpful to stick with what the horses are accustomed to and the time spent preparing them meant that we got to know them that bit better. The tack was in excellent condition and appeared well-fitted to the horses. Each horse was checked by the guide prior to being tacked up to ensure that there were no injuries or issues.

Once we were all sorted, it was time to mount and head off on our first adventure. The group split into two, one group going with Paul, and myself and the other ladies heading out with Trez. Each group went a different route and therefore stopped at a different pub. Trez was an excellent guide, always clear in her signals to us, friendly and helpful, and she rode Viking who appeared to be a great lead horse. We enjoyed riding along quiet country lanes, across the moors to see beautiful views and along wobbly paths lined with ferns. We stopped at the Farmers Arms for a tasty lunch of fishcakes, chips and salad… the pub being particularly quiet due to Wales’ defeat in the Rugby World Cup that morning (the landlord told us that everyone was at home crying). We had fun, speedy canters on the way home and Lord took excellent care of me, despite only being young himself. He was responsive and sure-footed and I felt safe but exhilarated. The sun shone on us as we returned to the farm, sponged the horses down and let them loose in the field to see them enjoy a well-deserved roll. Once we’d cleaned the tack and put things away it was time for tea and biscuit-scoffing before some relaxation prior to dinner. Turkey schnitzel, dauphinoise potatoes and salad, followed by baked apples. We settled down in the sitting room for a spot of X-Factor viewing but none of us managed to stay up late as the riding had worn us out!

Sunday was the same layout but the two riding groups switched routes – Trez led the other group to the Farmers Arms and we went with Emelie who was riding the rather speedy Mr Pugh! Emelie was wonderful company, making plenty of conversation, but was also responsible ensuring that we were all alright with our horses. Pugh certainly set a good pace for us! We stopped at the Red Lion for baguettes and tasty chips (or in Chris’ case… just a big dessert instead!) whilst the horses stood quietly parked in bays in the car park. During each stop the horses had their bridles removed and girths loosened so that they could rest their mouths and tummies. During the afternoon we did some serious climbing (standing in the stirrups is great for burning chip calories!) and the horses took us high up to catch beautiful views of the land around us. We stood for a while to let them catch their breath before we began our descent and our return to the farmhouse. Half the group was set to leave late that afternoon so after a final tea together we said a fond farewell to them and relaxed before our Sunday roast dinner and another peaceful evening.

Monday was our final day of riding and I rode Eddie the stallion. Lord had done me proud the days before but it was hard work for a youngster, especially one so willing, whereas Eddie needed the exercise and was happy to get out and about. Although people like to think of stallions as being somewhat wild and uncontrollable, “Steady Eddie” was quiet to handle, well behaved and a sensible ride. He was quite happy at the back and even though we had two mares on the ride, he behaved like the perfect gent. He was true to his nickname and offered a steady ride, but still kept up during the lovely canters and I enjoyed riding him. He was also rather handsome and devoted to his truest love, a beautiful mare called Nicole, and their foal Bob! Paul was our guide for the day and he did a fine job, as you’d expect, moving back and forth between the ride ensuring everyone was OK and making an effort to chat with us all. We enjoyed another lovely lunch and were joined by Emily who fell in love with Paul during a riding weekend here in 2007. Their children, Nye and Nesta, came along too and Nye helped us eat the sandwiches and, of course, more yummy chips. Despite the fact that Neptune didn’t want to remain tied up in the car park, far preferring to munch on the surrounding trees, the horses were patient as they waited for us to come back outside. The afternoon saw us ride more hilly paths at a fun but controlled canter, sometimes leaping the odd little ditch (depending on your horse – less experienced riders are given horses happy to trundle through any ditches!). We crossed open fields of sheep, meandered through the ferns and enjoyed wandering past remote farms or through pretty villages. Although we spent quite a bit of time on country lanes, there was rarely a vehicle passing and we could ride alongside each other and in any order. Raincoats were needed for the afternoon but we all returned to the farmhouse with smiles on our faces and some great riding behind us.

We sat down together for the last time and were joined by Paul and Nye and Paul’s parents, Mike and Maria. As we chatted about our day and slowly demolished their biscuit supply, we realized it was time to pack and head home to our normal lives… which unfortunately, for most of us, are not set in a beautiful valley in Brecon Beacons National Park where a herd of super Welsh cobs await their next riders. I guess that’s what made this wonderful weekend such a treat!”

Riding weekends here are running throughout November and beyond so please do get in touch if you’re up for an affordable, hands-on riding holiday with willing horses, great guides, cosy accommodation and tasty home-cooked food. In the words of one lady who joined Holly for the weekend – “Great weather, good company, beautiful location, lovely horses, tasty food, welcoming hosts – what more can I say.”

Prices start from as little as £250 per person for two nights of accommodation, two days of trail riding and all meals.

To read more about this ride: Brecon Beacons and Beyond, Wales.

Provence, France, 2011.

Sue Maling.

On 25th September 2011, Sue Maling and her husband Jon joined the Trail in the Camargue from our riding destination in Provence, France. This is a six night trail that takes you from the Provençal mountains of the Luberon, across Van Gogh’s hills “Les Alpilles”, and to the Mediterranean Sea. The trail will take you to the famous Camargue, the land of flamingoes, black bulls and white horses.

Thanks to Sue and Jon for sharing their thoughts and photos with us. Below is Sue’s report on the trail:

“Fresh back from Provence it’s hard to get back to the British way of life again, I’d just relaxed into French speed. We arrived in France to a heatwave of 28-30C which lasted the week and sunbathing on the 1st of October whilst waiting for the flight home helped take the edge off having to leave. Marseille is actually nowhere near as flat as I thought, the town is surrounded by hills, and we headed into the Luberon range to Didier’s farm. It’s not a long journey, just over an hour, but you go from the fast toll roads to tiny winding roads near the farm and it seemed so remote. We settled into our rooms in the woods and chatted by the horses’ fields before dinner, trying to guess who we would ride. I joked that I love black geldings and would likely get a grey mare as I have done on several rides….and I did!

The chef at Didier’s place is a real character and he entertained us all on the first and last night. We met our guide, Jean-Francois or J-F for short…which he pronounced ‘Jeff’ and that certainly stuck all week. He chatted to us about what type of horse we would like and I think he chose extremely well, people who wanted a steady horse had exactly that, not dull or flat but forward-going and rhythmic which is very helpful if someone has low confidence. We were a group comprising of seven Swedish ladies, two Brits and a German couple. Some had their own horses at home and had done many trail rides before whilst others were on their first trail, so JF’s job was cut out for him.  I think everyone was happy the next day, including me with my lovely grey mare who was Arab-Barb cross Spanish – ‘Esperanze’ had a long, keen stride and gentle nature. I was a bit worried that my ‘Welsh Cob’ trained hands courtesy of my own horse would be too harsh for her, although it probably did me good to relearn a sensitive ride and she was without fault all week.

We rode out of the farm and in no time were following some narrow, rocky paths with some low branches and a few drops to our right… so within the first hour you had learned that your horse was really reliable with good footing and wouldn’t rush the important bits (cue a deep sigh of relief on my part!). Jon was happy with his horse too, a tough call as he’d like a fast horse but doesn’t have the experience. He had a strong guy with big strides who was happy to go all day (another sigh of relief!). The little rocky paths meant mainly walk on the first day – you had plenty to do by navigating the paths and the branches so you never felt you needed to go faster and it gave you a real chance to get to know your horse.

Over the following three days we made our way through the limestone Luberon and Alpille ranges, full of fossils and attractive rock landscapes. The tracks got a little wider and softer, bit by bit, allowing for more trots and canters. JF did a great job, being really relaxed, and we could all ride wherever we wanted in the group and change at will to walk and trot beside each other where the paths were wide enough. There was no big deal about starting and stopping trots and canter which was lovely because the horses were keen without racing each other so you could really enjoy the scenery. We stopped in the woods for lunch – one day it was a rather amazing salad with cheeses afterwards and of course wine and a siesta. The next day it was a huge platter of hot chicken and baby ‘roast/saute’ potatoes straight from the back of our support van (I started to call our helper Merlin!) with of course cheeses and wine. Another day it was paella….cheeses and wine, they did warn us we wouldn’t lose weight!

The first night of the trail we stayed at a B&B with a pool in the woods, the horses in a paddock next to us… except two people needed to sleep a five minute walk away and those two people were us. It was a very pleasant walk to dinner… and a really spooky one home when I nearly turned into an open field instead of the right driveway – it was good weather but I wasn’t planning on open air camping that night! The dinners were all beautiful, many started with a tart of some sort which had really delicate flavours. The main courses always had a vegetable dish too, usually in a creamy sauce, very moreish. We had guinea fowl and beef which absolutely fell apart. Then when we hit the Camargue there was Camargue rice and bull stew at a Camargue horse stud farm, run by Brenda who moved there from Hertfordshire 40 years ago… now there’s another character! She no longer likes to speak English and is very proud of her Camargue horses and way of life. It started to feel a bit like Spain with flamenco type dresses and bull fight festivals on posters… although the rules here don’t allow the bull to be a fatality which is a relief. Traditionally the local horses are used for cutting the cattle and especially the bulls, like Western horses. There is a special type of saddle used by the local riders… and there are quite a few of those. It’s the only place I’ve been to where you find places with a bull in the garden.

This is a such a balanced trail in pace and scenery. We climbed rock, crossed the river Durance, under the TGV viaduct, tied the horses up in a vineyard for wine tasting and reached the rice fields leading to the sea. The difference between the rocky Alpille, full of fossils, and the mudflats of the Carmargue is quite stark. We rode to the pretty tourist village of Baux where we had some free time… well an hour (it was quite a schedule fitting everything into the day!) and from there both riders and horses had a transfer across what is now a busy road section. Many of us took advantage of the time for a quick snooze and I think maybe the horses did too. When we left Brenda’s the next day the going was flat and sandy, perfect for canters which built up to a good pace when we reached the open mud flats – great fun! Where we stayed that night had a really Spanish feel and we ate at Casa Romana where one of the options was bull steak. The next day we rode along the Mediterranean beach, cantering then stopping to splash in the sea. Esperanze wasn’t that keen on the waves at first but we cantered through them eventually. The beach had its typically Mediterranean ‘revealing’ sections (the ‘moon’ was out on one bit!) and also a protected section where the flamingos nest. We rode back through the dunes and shallows of brackish water, seeing hundreds of these pink flamingos sleeping, eating and flying. They are so interesting to watch and we were quite close at this time. We returned to Brenda in the afternoon via the sandy drains, all pretty exhausted by the end.

That night we helped to unload the horses from their transfer back to Didier’s and gave them their big bale of hay. We retired for a great last night’s entertainment with Didier’s team and the horses were still eating that hay next morning at breakfast, all looking very relaxed. It’s always sad to leave a place you have enjoyed so much and I did try to make room for Esperanze in my case, JF really chose really well. He’s an interesting guy and a really professional guide, always putting everyone at ease. He made sure all the horses were cared for at every stage. The tack was well fitting and endurance/trail type – it wasn’t new by a long shot but comfortable and safe… I guess a few stitches in a saddle seat is nothing our four-legged friends would worry about if the underside is just what they need for long days. Most horses do have some tender spots after a week’s trail but Esperanze had none, and I don’t think my backside was to credit for that! I also have to say I wasn’t in the least bit sore or stiff at all – quite a surprise for my (un)fitness level these days.

What a lovely week – I hope every trail is that much fun!”

Read more about the ride here: Provence, France.

Cefalu Trail, Sicily, 2011.

Sarah Ritchie, Far and Ride.

From the 3rd – 11th September 2011, Sarah from Far and Ride escorted the Cefalu Trail in Sicily. This is a fabulous scenic trail which takes you through four Sicilian Parks: the Madonie, Nebrodi, Etna and Alcantara. Below are Sarah’s thoughts on the trip:

“Upon arrival at the airport I was greeted by our host for the week, Giuseppe, before meeting the clients who were booked onto the ride. Unfortunately, two of the clients had problems with lost luggage so we had to spend some time at the airport in the hope their bags would turn up (after three days they eventually did appear!). Giuseppe had hired a minibus to drive us all to our first overnight stop, the fabulous Santa Anastasia, situated just outside the town of Cefalu. We made a brief stop in Palermo so that we could try some delicious ice cream in sweet bread, a traditional treat that Sicily is famed for. I would definitely recommend to anyone visiting Sicily to spend a day or two in Palermo as the city is rich in history, culture and architecture. One thing to watch out for though are the poor driving skills of the locals!

The surroundings of Santa Anastasia are beautiful and the rooms are spacious and nicely decorated. There is a lovely pool to relax by or for a refreshing swim. The restaurant has a nice atmosphere and the food was fresh and of superb quality, authentic Italian fare to tempt all visitors, and we especially enjoyed the wine from the property’s own vineyards! We enjoyed our first dinner together, discussed the trail and any questions that we had were answered. Giuseppe also gave us the opportunity to specify whether we would prefer to use English or Western style tack for the trail ride. Please note that a based stay with daily riding can be arranged from this hotel which is located approximately fifteen minutes away from Cefalu.

One thing I learnt very quickly about Sicily is that there is never any rush. When you are told breakfast is at 7.30, it is often at 8.30! This is a testament to their relaxed way of life. After breakfast it was time to meet the horses, who are kept just a short walk away from the hotel. We were suitably matched to our horses and introduced to our guide, Luciano. Luciano proved to be a fantastic guide, very responsible and caring when it came to guests as well as the horses. He always communicated well if we were about to pick up the pace or slow down. This first ride led us through forests, across vineyards, and amongst olive and ash trees which we were told were 1000 years old. There were many stops along the way for a welcome break and a chance for the horses to have a drink at local wells. The ride took us to the medieval town of Tusa, where we spent the night at Agriturismo Margiscammari. My horse, Topolina, had lost a shoe during the morning ride but not long after we arrived she was soon having a new set put on. We had dinner at a local restaurant a very short walk away – a varied dinner with a range of courses consisting of meats, cheeses, pasta and vegetables. Once again local wine was supplied to accompany the various foods.

The following morning, having enjoyed breakfast in the restaurant from the previous night, we set off toward the village of Mistretta. Two clients opted for afternoon riding only and so their horses accompanied the group, running loose along side us. They were more than happy with this they are always kept in a herd so there is little chance of them leaving the group. Today I tried a different horse, Giuseppe’s own, who I found to be forward-going and responsive. We stopped for a picnic lunch of ham and cheese rolls. Red wine (as well as soft drinks) was available at every picnic lunch in the coming week and these picnics consisted of fresh bread, cold meats, cheese and fresh fruit. The morning ride was a fast one with lots of gallops, whereas after lunch the riding pace was slower with steep and rocky terrain. This is normally the most scenic part of the itinerary but we were unlucky and couldn’t see much as it was very foggy that day! We arrived at the wonderful Agriturismo Santasofia, which was very peaceful and on the crown of a mountain which made for some fabulous views. We were shown to our rooms before dinner which was once again a huge feast of cold meats, cheese, bread, pasta, and vegetables, all hearty Italian ingredients.

The following two days were the longest and most tiring rides (54 km and 48 km). The terrain and surroundings were very varied and we rode through forests, along the top of mountains and on dirt tracks heading towards the town of Floresta. Again there were plenty of opportunities for galloping and along the way we came across some wild pigs and Sicilian “San Fratellani” horses. In Floresta you find yourself in the land of the Tholos with ancient buildings made by pastors with stone walls and straw roofs, and home to the most famous Sicilian Caciocavallo cheese. Clients can opt to witness this cheese being made locally if they wish. The small village is located on a plateau at 1300m, an area made up of wide pastures and dense forests with views of Etna in the distance.

When riding around Etna the landscape changes rather dramatically as the fertile volcanic soil supports extensive agriculture, with vineyards and orchards spread across the land. Much of Mount Etna’s surface is covered with oak, stone pine, birch and beech trees. The lower altitudes have shrubs, such as broom plant, whilst vineyards and olive groves are in abundance at the base of the volcano. Types of wildlife in the forests include foxes, weasels, squirrels, rabbits, porcupines, hedgehogs, some wild cats, snakes and lizards. We were told how during one eruption the lava swallowed up a huge cabin that housed snow ploughs, along with a tourist car park and several ski lift pylons. These have all since been rebuilt. We were shown the remains of a roof from what was once someone’s home, now completely buried in lava.

This trail is definitely one for the more adventurous and experienced rider as there are plenty of opportunities for faster riding and very long hours in the saddle (sometimes eight hours in a day). The horses are a mixture of Arabs, Anglo Arabs and Sicilian, all very responsive and sure-footed over the often tricky terrain. The horses are well cared for and have no problem with either the heat or the challenging parts of the ride. The accommodation throughout the trail is varied but always comfortable and pleasant with fabulous food being served at every stop (you will never go hungry in Sicily!). I would certainly recommend a certain level of fitness though as I found myself wishing I had done a bit more riding in preparation! The hosts are wonderful and go the extra mile to ensure that you get the most out of your trip. There is the option to fly into either Palermo or Catania airport where you will be met and dropped off unless you choose to make your own way. You haven’t seen Italy until you’ve been to Sicily!”

Read more about the ride here: Cefalu Trail, Sicily.

Great South Ranch, Morocco, 2011.

Holly Anthony, Far and Ride.

From 17th – 24th September 2011, Holly from Far and Ride joined five lovely ladies for a special week programme to Far and Ride’s Moroccan ranch. The week consisted of seven nights and six days of riding – three days of riding out from the ranch and a three-day trail ride through the mountains with two nights of camping. The programme also included extras such as dinner on the beach one night, Moroccan music performed by the staff, a spot of shopping in the local towns and some massages. Tailor made programmes like this can be designed for groups.

Below is Holly’s report on the week… it’s rather lengthy but there were too many good details to miss out! Many thanks to Holly (the other Holly!), Sonya, Katy, Liz and Jenny for joining the trip and to Maria for her great company and stories.

“OK, let’s go!”

Our journey from London Gatwick to Agadir on Saturday (via EasyJet) went smoothly, despite the failings of passport control in Agadir airport to work at any kind of pace. I managed to be the last person through, at which point the man at the desk looked at my boarding card and said, “You work for a travel agency? And you are the last one! Haha!” We moved on to change our money at the Bureau de Change and had to queue for some time (due to the fact the people in front appeared to be changing millions of pounds), but our driver understood what we were doing and waited patiently for us in the arrivals area. Importing and exporting the Moroccan Dirham is prohibited but it appears that there are many ways to source the currency in your home country (though we recommend you follow the guidelines!). The transfer to the ranch was approximately two hours and by the time we got there, we were tired and hungry, although the flight itself was only around four hours. We were greeted by Kamal, Lahcen, Taofik and Yousef and they were all cheery and eager to help carry our luggage to our rooms. The manager of the ranch, Leila, designated rooms and we dropped off our things before heading to the dining area.

Although rather too tired to fully appreciate it, our first meal was a sign of things to come. It began with a fresh salad of tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers with bread, followed by a tasty chicken tagine and finished with ripe plums. Bottled water is included at all meals and we were given bottles to take to our rooms as well. The rooms themselves were bright, clean and comfortable with en suite shower rooms (designed as wet rooms) and towels provided. The rooms are simple (there is no air conditioning and the hot water is run from gas canisters so it fluctuates) but welcoming with good-sized windows to open and let in the fresh air. Each room has two single beds that can be pushed together to create a double bed. There are lovely touches such as framed photos of the horses and pieces of local pottery scattered through the rooms and around the ranch. By my bed was a beautiful photo of Tamazirt, a fine Arab-Barb mare, who would turn out to be my ride for the week.

On the Sunday morning we met Maria, a friendly Swedish lady who would complete our group. Breakfast was bread with butter, jams, honey, cheese and dates. Coffee and fresh orange juice was provided. It was then time to wriggle into our jodhpurs and begin our Moroccan riding adventure! Our first experience of riding from the ranch was a tour of a few hours including climbing the side of a nearby mountain and then riding along the beach. We were all able to prepare our own horses and they were in good condition, well fed but fit and lean, with strong feet and excellent shoes. Many bear the scars of their previous homes and although they work hard at the ranch, they are treated with care and appear to have kept their spirits in tact! The tack was adequate and generally well cared for, with the bits washed after every use, and the horses were hosed down after each ride out. We mounted in the ménage (blocks available) and walked around to get used to the horses and for the staff to put us in a suitable order. The initial horse and rider partnerships needed some tweaking in a few cases and it’s fair to say that our first taste of speed on the beach was disorderly – the horses knew this was our first day and were keen. Having said that, none of the horses disappeared into the distance and by our second ride that day, we were already getting the hang of them and were really beginning to enjoy our beautiful new surroundings. I loved my horse for the week, Tamazirt, who could offer a turn of speed whilst remaining controllable and steady. She was careful on mountain paths and had great stamina… also very pretty!

Throughout the week the horses showed great willingness and sure-footedness and when not gearing up to canter, could be ridden on a nice long rein. When it came to canters and gallops, most, if not all, were strong and eager (especially on the beach) but we were instructed to keep in line and in order and this worked out well. I appreciated their spirit as it showed an enjoyment in what they were doing and all were safe… I think it’s fair to say that we all came to love our new four-legged friends. People are often worried when travelling to Morocco and other North African countries for horse riding, fearing that the horses may be underfed or mistreated, but this is not the case here. They are without doubt working animals but attention is paid to their needs.

Our guide for the week, Lahcen, was safety conscious but fun, always looking back to make sure we were OK and increasing the speed when everyone looked comfortable. He also offered helpful tips and signalled each change of speed (both up and down) and his calls of “OK, let’s go!” were met with readiness. One day we took an evening ride and cantered down the beach in the dark with just the starlight and a few head torches to guide our way – although nerve-wracking at first, this was a truly special experience and we were followed by Yousef at the back to make sure that nobody was left behind. In fact, Kassette, the ranch dog, also joined us for this ride and took real delight in charging through the waves next to us. It should be noted that the guides and staff speak limited English, although Lahcen’s was easily adequate for guiding us, and the majority of the guests are French so visitors to the ranch need to be open-minded about socialising with a mostly French-speaking group. For this reason, I would not recommend it for single travellers who do not speak fairly competent French, though pairs or groups are fine if willing to share the simple pleasantries such as “bonjour!” and “ça va?” with others at the ranch and with the locals that they meet (part of the fun!).

During the rides we encountered ladies tending to their sheep and lambs, men climbing mountains on their donkeys whilst laden with crops, fisherman and even one cheery fellow out for a run. The locals were friendly and answered our greetings and the children took great delight in running after us calling “bonjour madame!” When not in the saddle we were able to visit the local swimming pool and jacuzzis, enjoy massages at the ranch and do a bit of shopping in the nearby towns of Sidi Ifni and Mirleft. Leila accompanied us to help with the haggling and bought us mint tea and Moroccan style doughnuts. Our taxi driver greatly enjoyed learning the word ‘bee’ as we passed the local hives that were spread across the mountainsides and we were able to see the beautiful beach at Legzira, a more swimmer-friendly beach than that near the ranch where the currents can be very strong (but OK for paddling in the shallows). We also had dinner on the beach one night, after which the team played some Moroccan music for us under the stars.

Our three day trail ride was Wednesday – Friday with two nights of camping and a return to the ranch for a final night on Friday before our Saturday departure. The trail involved long days, sometimes up to seven hours of riding, and allowed us to see more of the real Morocco beyond the pretty beaches and ranch surroundings. We passed through small villages, along paths lined with olive and fig trees, where the land was irrigated to allow crops to grow, and we crossed ancient, dry riverbeds as we meandered through the dust. We cantered through the desert, climbed steep mountain roads (standing in the stirrups is a good workout!) and saw beautiful views across the land. On the Wednesday we stopped for lunch in a cave that had been made into a little sitting/dining room and were served grilled fish that the owner of the home had caught himself. The horses were tied to a long line and had their bridles removed and girths loosened before being watered and fed nutritious green hay, enough to last them the time that we were eating our lunch and relaxing out of the sun. Our evening campsites were well organised with several two-person tents and a large dining tent with a table, cushions and chairs. From the truck hung a ‘sun shower’ that is designed to heat up in the sun throughout the day. The team erected a shower tent around this so that people could rinse themselves off after their day in the saddle (the water didn’t get very warm but people were glad to get clean!). Water, coke, mint tea and salted nuts awaited us and Hamid was there to freshly prepare our dinner. The horses were always dealt with first – untacked, fed and watered, having a hard feed as well as their hay. We washed the bits and then were able to peel off our less than fresh riding gear and get into something more comfortable… and clean!

The Thursday was very hot but a long, leisurely lunch stop with plenty of water and my favourite ‘Hawai Tropicale’ saw us through the afternoon. Leila and her partner, René, came out to the campsite to meet us that evening and we were treated with Leila’s delicious apple cake (to which Sonya simply said “MORE CAKE!”). On the Friday morning we paused for a few group photos before mounting and riding into the village to water the horses at a nearby well. Some local boys helped us and in return, Lahcen let them sit on his horse, Ifoulki, as a treat – a kind gesture and an example of the nature of the staff here. We then rode through a town to meet some local women who make huile d’argan, oil made from the nuts of the Argan tree which is endemic to certain parts of Morocco. This oil can be used in cooking and cosmetics (rich in vitamin E so lovely for the hair and skin!) and we were treated to delicious snacks and more mint tea. Before we left, the ladies mixed up some henna to put on the horses, a tradition to bring good luck that the horses didn’t seem to mind. On arrival back at the ranch for our final night, the horses enjoyed a well-deserved rinse with the hose before having a kind of mud poultice applied to their legs to help relieve the tired muscles. The stables were clean and stocked with hard feed, hay and water ready for them. As for us, we were all eager to get showered (Leila had washed our towels for us) and the ladies could begin their one-hour massages before dinner. Everyone was happy to be clean and enjoyed a glass of wine and a lot of laughter that evening, along with the company of the guys who joined us for a while before our meal. René was out on the BBQ, grilling fish and tomatoes that we had with rice (yum!), followed by a birthday cake for Liz.

On our final day we enjoyed a last breakfast before saying a sad goodbye to Liz and Maria, who had different departure times, and most of the staff. Hamid and Yousef packed up the truck and we loaded our luggage into a minivan before heading out for a final lunch. Our lunch spot turned out to offer spectacular views over a large reservoir one side and across the Sahara desert on the other. We sat with an elderly Moroccan man for lunch and he wrapped our heads in scarves he had made and served us the final mint tea of our trip. He was also very eager to show that he could still get his foot behind his head! We paid him for the scarves and departed for the airport, stopping for a tour at a pottery factory where we were able to purchase beautiful handmade goods, trying desperately to cram them into our luggage for the trip home. Soon we were back on a plane (well, after a delay of course!) leaving being the beautiful ranch, the honest horses and new friends.

Riding in Morocco was made particularly special by the staff at this destination, all of who were extremely hardworking, cheerful and good at their jobs. Add in the lovely horses, the surroundings, the good weather, the delicious Moroccan fare and all the little extras and it was certainly a week not to be forgotten. The ranch run a full week trail programme or you can enjoy a ranch based stay, riding out once or twice a day leaving time for other activities or simply relaxation. A combination of the two, such as our week there, allows for great beach riding and extras whilst offering you the chance to explore further a field during the trail. Special group packages can easily be created to suit your needs. Don’t hesitate to get in touch so that we can arrange your Moroccan adventure!

Read more about the ride here: Great South Ranch, Morocco.

Ranch Hotel, Turkey, 2011, Jess Rogers.

On arrival at the airport we knew we were in for an extreme week, having stepped off the plane into 40+ degree heat! Having found our transfer (after a short delay) we were on our way to the ranch and reached our final destination in just over an hour, having admired the sea view and stunning coastal roads along the way. First impressions of the ranch were lovely; its location is nestled in the mountains beside the twin peak rocks and is so peaceful (apart from the occasional neighing horse!).

On reaching the hotel we were welcomed warmly and shown to our room with complementary cocktails and fruits, which were very welcome after the long journey from England. The rooms are simply furnished but very clean and – most importantly – have an excellent air conditioning system which offers relief from the baking sun. The facilities at the ranch were very good, with a lovely pool, which even in high summer wasn’t crowded, and everything you could wish for is provided. Equally the food is very good, with the chance to sample some Turkish dishes and you certainly won’t go hungry with five different courses!

Now to the most important aspect – the horses. The stables are clean and tidy and the horses are friendly, if a little nervous. Most of the horses there are Arab types, as was my horse for the week, Ozan. Ozan was so sweet and I absolutely fell in love with him during the week! He was very responsive, very forward going and happy to soften to your hand. The riding was some of the best (and the most exciting) I have ever experienced, it’s certainly not for the faint hearted as my first ride out proved – following a quick trial in the ménage to ensure both rider and horse were happy – myself and Metin (the wonderful guide) headed out into the mountains where we galloped flat out up the mountain side, ‘chasing’ the quad bikes that also head out into the mountains. When we finally pulled up I was breathless and invigorated, having realised this would be a holiday to remember. And so I spent the next few days riding out with Metin on my own or sometimes with other guests but the biggest group I ever went out in was five which was brilliant as it meant the riding was tailored to my ability and desires. (And equally for those who wished to go slower there were alternative rides). One of the other guides commented to me that it was ‘extreme riding’ and I had to agree with him as we climbed steep rock faces, dived in and out of shrubs and galloped up stony mountain sides with a rock face to one side of you and a sheer drop to the other – I have to say it’s a moment I will remember (and cherish) forever.

On one day our guide took myself and a French lady to the beach to swim with the horses, which was absolutely amazing. We were up and ready to ride out a 6am and having threaded our way down the mountain side we finally reached our destination where we had breakfast on the beach followed by riding the horses bareback into the sea. It was an absolute highlight of the trip and the gallop back up the mountain was almost as good!

The guides – Metin especially – made a real effort to show me different things such as the mountain cave we visited one evening. Metin also taught me how to ask the horse to rear on his hind legs which was such fun (although I don’t think I’ll be trying it on the horses back home!).

The people in Turkey generally are very friendly, although it’s certainly not a place to visit if you expect to meet lots of other English guests and to be spoken to in perfect English. We were the only English guests at the ranch but the staff always made an effort to speak English although for many of them it’s very basic. The location of the ranch although isolated in a sense that you can’t walk anywhere, is only a 10 minute car journey to the town of Kemer and the beach (note: it is a pebble beach so a top tip is to wear your flip-flops into the water as the pebbles get very hot and we – and our burnt feet – learnt the hard way!) There is also free ranch shuttle bus to the town and beach daily which is very useful. There’s also lots to do in Kemer such as boat rides, shopping, quad bikes and jeep safari (which I would definitely recommend, it was a brilliant day out). However this holiday’s greatest attraction has to be the riding and fantastic guides which made it a truly wonderful week. I would definitely encourage anyone to visit here and doubt you could fail to fall in love with the horses and the people. If I have one regret it’s that one week was not enough!

Read more about this ride here: Ranch Hotel, Turkey.

Far and Ride now have four escorted riding holidays arranged for 2011 (so far!) and these are ideal for the single traveller. ‘Escorted’ means that you are accompanied by a member of staff from the Far and Ride office, ensuring that you have good (or so we like to think!) company. It also helps to encourage bookings from other single travellers so that you can make up a good group and find new friends who share your passion for riding and horses. We’d love to have you along to ride with us!

So far for 2011:

3rd – 11th September, Nature Park Trail, Sicily.

This trail will be escorted by Sarah – sarah@farandride.com

This new horseback riding journey will surprise even the most seasoned equestrian with its beauty, as you ride through four Sicilian parks: the Madonie, Nebrodi, Etna and Alcantara. The itinerary from Cefalù to Taormina is characterised by an evocative landscape, a mixture of history, culture and traditions.

This particular trail date now also has an amazing 250 Euros discount so not only can you make new friends but you can save money on a fabulous trip too.

Riders for this trip should be of an intermediate standard and above, happy to ride at all paces in open countryside and to spend long hours in the saddle. During the trail rides, guests will be encouraged to care for their own horse.

Feedback: “The trail was wonderful. The wildflowers were out everywhere and the temperature in the hills was very comfortable. We were caught in a hail storm one afternoon but that just made for more good stories and laughs. My boots are still drying out. Giuseppe did a great job of organizing everything and Luciano, our guide, was very considerate and observant to our and the horses’ needs.” – Sonya

17th – 24th September, Ranch Stay and Trail Combination Week, Morocco.

This trip will be escorted by Holly – holly@farandride.com

This trip is the ideal holiday for single travellers looking to make new friends and enjoy some fantastic riding on beaches and in the mountains, experiencing a variety of riding terrain. The programme is based around the first three days at the ranch, riding out from there twice a day, followed by a three day trail ride into the mountains where we will camp. This is a special programme which has added extras such as massages, dinner on the beach and a visit to a local town included, as well as a guaranteed sunset or moonlight beach ride. The final night of the trip is spent back at the ranch where you can relax before departure.

As this is a tailor made programme designed by Holly herself (like the programme on the website but altered), it’s your one opportunity to combine great riding with plenty of pre-arranged extras.

Riders for this trip should be of an intermediate standard and above, happy to ride at all paces in open countryside and to spend long hours in the saddle. During the trail rides, guests will be encouraged to care for their own horse.

Feedback: “Our holiday was relaxing yet exhilarating. We rode forward-going horses at pace, as well as gently, through marvellous scenery. Back at the ranch we ate like kings and enjoyed the glorious sunshine. The holiday was perfect – our holiday checklist was met and exceeded, it was wonderful. My favourite memory can only be a setting sun, 8km of open sand and the Atlantic Ocean breaking next to my galloping horse.” – Adele

14th – 17th October, Long Weekend, Wales.

This trip will be escorted by Holly – holly@farandride.com

This long weekend begins on a Friday night with trail riding in the stunning Brecon Beacons on Saturday, Sunday and Monday, with departure late Monday afternoon. The perfect quick getaway and within a few hours drive of London. Pub lunches are an added bonus! Some days you might ride up to 20 miles and these fantastic Welsh cobs are sure to teach you a thing or two about hill climbing. Everyone participates in catching, grooming and tacking up their allocated horse before a few useful tips are provided to help you make the most of riding amidst this stunning scenery.

Riders for this long weekend should be of a strong novice standard and above, happy at walk, trot and canter in open countryside and in good physical health to deal with riding over hilly terrain. This is a lovely introduction to trail riding whilst also remaining fun for those with more experience and the group can be divided by ability if required.

Feedback: “I had a great time in Wales! Dream horse, amazing scenery, great food and a warm and friendly family to go back to at the end of the day. What more can you ask for? I would highly recommend it… and I will definitely be going back!” – Charlotte

3rd – 12th November, Petra to Wadi Rum Trail (10 Day Tour), Jordan.

This trip will be escorted by Sarah – sarah@farandride.com

This is an amazing 10 day tour of Jordan from Petra to the Wadi Rum. Discover the breathtaking scenery of “Lawrence of Arabia” from the back of a beautiful Arab horse. The nature in Jordan is very diverse, breathtakingly beautiful and rugged. This horse ride takes you from the mountainous area of Petra to the vast sand plains and steep formations of Wadi Rum. The trip combines 6 days of desert riding with sightseeing such as a visit to the Dead Sea.

The hosts in Jordan offer you a combination of international experience, local influence, a high standard of quality and warm hospitality. Your hosts have a great passion for this country and for horses and wish to share all its wonders and beauty in such a way that Jordan leaves an unforgettable impression in your mind and heart. There is a selection of lovely horses. Some are pure Arabian and the rest have Arabian blood in them. They are all well behaved and they enjoy working.

If you’d like to join this trip then you need to be a strong and confident intermediate or experienced rider. Good physical health is required to deal with the demands of the trail, the potential heat and the long canters.

Feedback: “A breathtaking experience where no detail was left to chance. I enjoyed the striving for excellence and the company’s really genuine passion for equestrian tourism. I was astonished by the loving and caring manner with which the horses were accurately treated.” – Patrizia

If you are considering joining one of these trips but don’t know which to choose, you can email us at contact@farandride.com or give us a call on 01462 701110.

Come and join us for one of these fabulous holidays. We look forward to riding with you!

Krka Trail, Bosko’s Ranch and Croatian Culture, Croatia, 2011.

Sue Maling.

In June 2011, Sue Maling and her husband, Jon, rode the Krka Trail at Bosko’s Ranch in Croatia. Sue kindly offered to share her thoughts on the ride and here’s what she had to say about their Croatian adventure:

“The first day of the holiday was a real disaster, I’d had a puncture so we had to swap cars to get to the airport. The airport parking service was as slow as the ‘Speedy’ boarding and check in so even with running to the gate we still missed our very early morning flight to Split from Stansted. We managed to book an alternative from Gatwick so rang the ranch to tell them the new times and apologise – Dijana (Bosko’s wife) was already on her way to the airport but nothing was too much trouble and she was more than happy to pick us up later… much later! We eventually arrived at the ranch gone almost 11pm and I thought that dinner would be out of the question. How wrong can you be? This is Eastern Europe and eating is REALLY important and hey, 11pm is no time. There was a large group all singing along to a guitar, having just spent the weekend there at the ranch. We had an amazing meal, the most tender beef I have ever tasted – I never eat beef in the UK as it’s just too tough for me. Very nice with some very smooth, home-produced red wine.

The food had some elements I had experienced in Hungary, but I think cooked in a finer way. Hungarian food I found a bit heavy but not this, this was beautifully cooked. Soups, stews and hot-pots were regular features but my favourites had to be the fish nights… what a treat! Sunday was a lovely breakfast spread and then we were all introduced to our horses, nice looking guys and girls, some of which Bosko had bred, selecting the parents carefully. Others he had bought, including our two. Mia is a 16hh (ish) Holstein bred for show-jumping that he bought only five months ago. It was her first trail and my hubby rode her for the first hour or so while I rode Bosko’s daughter’s horse, a 15.2hh Hungarian bred Palomino called Franco with a heart of gold (his daughter is five years old!). He was a dream to ride, perfectly obedient and confident, independent and responsive. Franco has only been at the ranch six months and arrived badly lame before Bosko transformed him and his companion Gus, who was painfully thin at the time, into great trail horses. Bosko believes in teaching children on horses not ponies and that every one of his horses should be suitable for everything. One of his passions is racing and his race horses too are used with children, quite amazing training.

We had some keen horses on setting out for the ride, they were in great condition, fit and they were all rested before the trail. My hubby is not a regular rider and Mia was a bit enthusiastic for him so we swapped. I was pretty sad to lose Franco but the first canter on Mia and it was love – she is like a Rolls Royce – wow! Franco and Mia were very sweet together, always wanting to be close on the trail and in the field, sharing the same blade of grass.

That first day was lanes, fields and meadows and a paddle in the river – my word, Mia loves water. We all went to the beach that afternoon for a swim in the Med, much cleaner than I remember from childhood holidays around Greece!

On Monday we set off on the trail. It was a day of lovely meadow canters, how lovely to ride such keen fit horses that have no intention of trying to race, just enjoying the route you ask them to take. The canters were about five minutes long for most of the trail, and many quite a fast pace. In the afternoon we started to climb over the famous limestone rock landscape, up over the mountain and down to a welcoming lake for the horses to enjoy a splash and cool off. The lake is a manmade reservoir for the hydroelectric dam, but I had to keep reminding myself, it is such a lovely and vast feature. In fact we followed the lake all the next day and ended up staying further along in a really unique house, built as a dream project by a fascinating man who can speak dozens of languages… and brews a strange schnapps from green walnuts! It was a night to remember with singing until the early hours and, needless to say, a struggle to get up from breakfast!

The trail had taken us over a stoney plateau where we were surrounded by mountains, close to the border with Bosnia, and there was always a meadow somewhere for a canter. Most lunchtimes the horses had a paddock and every night they were free as a herd to graze. We often found one or two lying down asleep in the morning, so my guess is that they were fairly relaxed. They all responded to Bosko beautifully, Bosko’s wife says he can talk to animals and they understand – certainly true of his dogs and horses, he’s a talented man and looks after their needs with great care.

The night after the music we arrived at the paddock to find one of the owners’ mares had just had a foal, what a lovely surprise on a morning when we were a little jaded. There was a short rainstorm as we were tacking up, the only rain of the week, but of course we got wet and riding through thick undergrowth that morning made sure we stayed that way. It was the only occasion on the trail when we had to get off and lead the horses up a passageway with some steps – quite steep but good underfoot and only about 200 yards. There were some challenging climbs for the horses that day and all around us there was thunder and lightning which they seemed oblivious to. We were quite lucky that the rest of the morning was dry, some of the storms seemed very close. The heavens opened again just as we arrived at the lunch-spot so we kept dry under the shelter and enjoyed listening as Yuri played a bit more guitar.

That night we were staying in the town centre in a small hotel, muddy boots and all we trailed in. They were very understanding considering we were hardly the only guests. It had been a hard day for the horses with the steep rocky terrain, they really must have appreciated the short ride the next day which was just two hours to a fantastic family farm producing their own wine, olive oil and schnapps. They were almost self sufficient in food and we ate fish which had been caught there. Then we all became mainstream tourists for the afternoon, visiting the national park and wandering around appreciating being amongst nature. I’ve never seen so many dragonflies, in fact I don’t think I’ve seen that many dragonflies in all my life let alone in one place.

Croatia is a country very dependent on tourism with almost 50% of the population being either directly or indirectly supported by tourism. Most of the remaining members of the population are employed by the government or unemployed. That makes tourists pretty important people and Croatians aren’t short of grey matter, nor the will to work, so they really will go that extra mile to give you a great holiday. They are a very resourceful nation so expect to be pleasantly surprised by this part of Eastern Europe. I was beginning to think this was a hidden jewel and so close to home! The final day just sealed the deal for me. We rode through the most stunning canyon, and yes, we managed to find a meadow for a good canter – now I’d really had a holiday. Personally, I need mountains and fast canters which is a tricky combination. Add to that the fact that my knee doesn’t appreciate walking on foot and I’m not fit enough for a real handful of a horse anymore. Problem solved with this destination and to add the icing on the cake… this great riding was accompanied by good food, wine and truly warm hospitality. I love to see well treated horses and well organised businesses, nothing made me feel worried about the outcome. We had our fair share of horse problems, a few kicks meant a couple of horses went lame, but there were always more on standby ready to take up the trail with the help of outstanding support. If lunch was going to be pasta cooked outside and it rained…. well there were always sandwiches as an alternative. The rest spots are great for both riders and horses, well thought out for shelter and grass – small things but important.

We met some fun riders and made some firm friends, not least Bosko, Yuri and Dijana. Bosko loves to tell stories about people who return, one famously after just one month. In fact he loves to tell lots of stories and I have never met a man with so much passion for this life. It was a shame to end this trail, but the last afternoon in the Krka National Park is quite amazing, it’s a busy tourist spot which is not generally my thing but this can’t be missed.

Mostly I choose trails because I feel you are less likely to be bored than on a based stay (I’m not a read-your-book-by-the-pool person) but there is no chance of being bored with Bosko. You have so little time to yourself it’s untrue – thirty minutes to shower for dinner is about it. I think I would do his based ride as he really will tailor it which is quite unusual in Europe. Next time I will take the train to the airport and fly Croatian Airlines – it’s my only recommendations for improvement!

Few notes:

There are quite a few families (a lot local) around the ranch so lots of children around.
Not many places to spend money – a pre dinner drink at the one hotel overnight on the trail, entry to the national park (95 Kuna) and boat trip to the island (50 kuna). The airport is very small – landside there is a small cafe and very small newsagents with small souvenirs, ATM and car hire booths. Airside is just duty free.”

Read more about the ride here: Bosko’s Ranch and Croatian Culture, Croatia.

West Coast Ride, Algarve Beach and Forest, Portugal, 2011.

Sarah Ritchie, Far and Ride.

In April 2011, I escorted the Four Day West Coast Ride in the Algarve, a destination I spent four months working at last summer. After spending a fantastic summer there last year and realising it was a wonderful destination for plenty of riding in unspoiled landscapes, I was delighted to be able to escort a trip there. I took five clients along, one of whom had been to this destination before but for a based stay rather than a trail ride. The quinta is owned and run by Jinny Harman, an experienced English horsewoman, and the trail was led by two experienced guides, Nat and Joel. Despite having spent time there, I had not experienced the wonderful scenery the West Coast had to offer and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. We were very lucky with the weather as the forecast was not at all good whilst we were there. We somehow managed to get away with most of the rain and stormy weather being overnight, leaving mostly sunny days with the odd shower and cloudy moments.

David, Sarah and I arrived at Faro Airport on Sunday late morning ready for our transfer to the quinta, the starting point of our trail, where we met Pauline who had arrived a day earlier. As Alex and Emily were not due to arrive until early that evening, Jinny took the four of us out for a short hack that afternoon so that we could make sure we were happy on our horses before setting off in the morning. I was lucky enough to be able to ride my lead horse from the previous summer, Trovao, which instantly brought back many happy memories for me. We were all very well suited to the horses Jinny had chosen for us and had a lovely ride before I went off to Lagos, which is only a short 15 minute drive away, to pick up Alex and Emily. That evening we were due to have a barbeque by the pool but the weather was certainly not looking too promising so we opted for a homecooked lasagne in Jinny’s house instead, accompanied by green and red wine (green wine, ‘vinho verde’, is a Portuguese speciality).

In the morning, after breakfast, we went down to the yard to help prepare our horses for the trip. We set off, led by Nat, through the small traditional village of Bensafrim, the only bit of tarmac we would see for the day. At lunchtime we found a nice spot for a picnic which was brought along in the jeep by Sue, the yard manager. The weather was pretty windy but we managed to find a nice sunny, sheltered spot to enjoy sandwiches and beer! After a nice break we set off, heading to Herdade de Beicudo, our stopping place for the next two nights. The stunning property was absolutely perfect for us and the horses – Deborah and Henrique who own the property could not have been more hospitable. We were met there by Jinny, who took us for a drive along the coast before taking us to a local restaurant for a delicious dinner.

After a large breakfast the next morning, we set off for our longest ride of the trip. It was a wonderful ride along the open cliff tops towards Sagres. On route we were met by Jinny’s friend Nidia, who runs her own trekking centre nearby. Nidia guided us down to the beach of Castelejo, where her parents have a restaurant. We had set off an hour later than planned that morning due to bad weather, which in turn meant the tide had come in further than we had anticipated. We had an adventurous ride along the beach to reach the restaurant, having to do some unplanned rock climbing, leading the horses, to avoid the waves! It was certainly an experience to say the least but the horses were all so well behaved. Upon arrival at the restaurant, we tied the horses up right next to the beach whilst we enjoyed a delicious lunch and more beers! The horses certainly caught people’s attention, it was a new experience for us all to take our horses to the beach. After lunch we had a long afternoon ride back to Deborah’s, I think we were all starting to feel a little saddle sore! That evening Deborah and Henrique prepared us a huge paella, which proved very popular with everyone. There were plenty of drinks flowing and we all had a lovely relaxing evening.

The following morning we were led by Joel, who took us down to the beach for a good canter. The track from the beach to our lunch stop was perfect, through the sand dunes and along the coast. We stopped for another picnic, again met by Sue, with plenty of food and beer. After lunch we made our way to the home of another of Jinny’s friends, Gundrun, who kindly gave the horses a home for the night. We headed to the quaint, historic town of Aljezur, where we checked into our accommodation for the night. After a quick shower and spruce up, we went for dinner at a local restaurant. Another great selection of delicious food!

The next morning, after our final breakfast, we headed back to the stables to prepare the horses for our last ride. The day did not quite go to plan as en route to the restaurant, where we were due to have lunch, the heavens opened and we were caught in a very heavy downpour. In light of this we decided to get the horses home as quickly as possible and travel by car to the restaurant so that we didn’t have to leave the horses outside in the rain. Our final meal was a huge feast of wild boar, fish pie, salad, chips and a delicious dessert, accompanied by wine of course! It was a lovely meal, where we all had a chance to reflect on the last few days before a sad goodbye.

This trail is a fantastic trip for those wanting to do a slightly shorter trek, enjoying stunning scenery, great food, lovely horses and generally speaking, plenty of sunshine! It really was a fantastic five days, with great company and lots of fun. There are plenty of low cost flights available from many airports to Faro, from which the quinta is approximately a one hour drive away.

Read more about the ride here: Algarve Beach and Forest, Portugal.

Kupres Farm, Bosnia and Herzegovina, 2011.

Holly Anthony and Sarah Ritchie, Far and Ride.

“Just enjoy!”

In February 2011, Holly and Sarah from Far and Ride took three clients to Kupres in Bosnia & Herzegovina for a week of horse riding and skiing. This is the ultimate budget holiday and although they don’t have the facilities and equipment of many of our destinations, Mate, Marko and their team certainly weren’t lacking in hospitality or fantastic riding countryside. A week of horse riding and skiing costs approximately £550 per person for full board accommodation, airport transfers and all activities. Pure riding holidays here are available from less than £400 per person, value for money that you won’t find anywhere else. Here’s what the Far and Ride girls had to say about their Bosnian adventure…

Holly:

“When Far and Ride first received an email from Mate in 2010, he wrote “my English is not so good, but my offer is fantastic!”. In fact, his offer was so good that at first we thought he must have made a mistake. As we learnt more about these riding packages, it became clear to us that this had the potential to be an excellent budget option for riders looking for maximum adventure with minimum impact on their bank accounts. We sent a good Croatian friend to check it out for us and she was delighted with the people and the riding, as well as the warm welcome she received. Our first clients were so happy with their visit that they’ve already been back there and formed a great friendship with Mate and his business partner Marko.

We decided that we would travel there to test not only the riding but also the skiing tuition that they offer at the nearby ski resort. I had never skied before whereas Sarah had quite a bit of experience. Accompanied by three lovely clients, we set off not knowing quite what to expect but wanting to learn more about this destination so that we could sell it honestly to our clients.

We flew out on a Saturday with Croatia Airlines from London to Zagreb and then a connection to Split. The connection times were fairly tight but it was simple to navigate. There are plenty of direct flights available in the peak months and Mate or Marko will collect you from Split, Sarajevo or Zadar, all of which can be reached by budget airlines. We stayed in the rustic but cosy and comfortable log cabin but single guests or groups can also be accommodated in Mate’s house back in town, or in a separate apartment above his garage. The ground floor of his home is a bar run by Zoran, Mate’s brother, which was a lovely spot to enjoy a hot chocolate or mulled wine after skiing.

Next door to the accommodation cabin is a second cabin which has a bar stocked with a variety of drinks and a large cooking grill, somewhat like an indoor barbecue and an excellent focal point for our evening socialising. We helped ourselves to drinks, keeping a tally, and at the end of our stay we paid just one Euro per drink. There was local beer, vodka and all sorts of dangerous homemade schnapps to test, as well as usual mixers like coke and juice. Your preferred beverages can be bought in for you with prior notice. The cooking area produced some delicious food from grilled fresh trout to tasty sausages or steaks, always accompanied by bread and salad. Other meals included flavoursome goulash, ‘Kupres Pie’ (a secret recipe!) or a local recipe of minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves. A particular highlight were Nada’s apple rolls of which I think we all ate at least three. Meals here are generally heavy on meat, potatoes and bread, though special dietary requirements can usually be catered for. It is also worth noting that many people here smoke inside the bars, it’s a very relaxed and sociable atmosphere.

The main cabin is in sight of the stables which are basic by English standards but certainly adequate – the horses and ponies all had automatic drinkers, a constant supply of hay and were cleaned out each day. Winter turnout is extremely limited as they have no fixed paddocks, usually depending on electric fencing (which isn’t suitable in the snow and cold winter temperatures but great the rest of the year), though some of the youngsters do roam free around the area in the daytime. The hay is homegrown, as are the oats which supplement the ponies’ diets. As we were to find out, the riding here is not for the faint-hearted. Limited winter turnout and the fact that many of the ponies are quite young means that some of them can be a challenging ride, though steady options like Rubi, Vidra and Grizli are available for the less experienced rider or those who are more nervous or just looking for a relaxing ride. In the warmer months, riding is more regular and there is plenty of turnout available, resulting in less excitable (but still fun!) mounts. As we expected, Bosnian standards are rather different to those in England. The horses and ponies are not well groomed and tack is very basic (as is the riding style!) but they certainly love their ponies and take great pride in them. They were in good health with trimmed hooves (they do not need to be shod most of the time), bright eyes and coats, though of course they were rather fluffy due to the cold weather! Riding equipment is difficult to source there but we are working to help them improve this so that it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment of the wonderful riding here.

The riding here is based around Mate’s motto – “just enjoy”. There are no particular rules and although safe, they are very easygoing. This certainly isn’t nose to tail trail riding but it can be catered to the guests’ needs, rides being led by Mate or Marko who navigate the countryside. In general, the pace is fast with plenty of good gallops across the beautiful open expanses of countryside which have hardly any fences. The majority of the land is quite flat with streams winding through it, though there are hill climbs and lovely places to visit. As we went during a cold time of year we were more limited in our riding but we enjoyed all paces, sometimes cantering in the snow, and could see wolf prints in the snow beside us as well as termite nests destroyed by bears. We would not recommend this destination for novices in general, though there are quieter options to suit a novice rider, as the majority of mounts do require a confident rider. Confidence will get you further here than technical skill as these are basic and forward-going trail horses, not those which have been used in a school environment. Most are small Bosnian types or Bosnian Arab crosses but they are able to carry adult riders with ease, Bosnian ponies being extremely sturdy. They all had nice natures and in the case of those like Hamdani and Max, who did have their quirks about them, we were told beforehand. Overall the riding was fun and adventurous, unlike anything any of us had done before, and it was very refreshing. It made coming home to tuition and roadwork a real hardship!

The skiing was great fun and Mate offered excellent tuition. Experienced skiers may not find the slopes here so adventurous but for newcomers or lower level skiers it was excellent value for money and a superb experience. Mate has built ‘three person skis’ – he goes on the back, his ski instructor friend goes at the front and the person in the middle is a passenger. As far as we know, there is nowhere else that you can do this! For those who are brave enough, it is the most fabulous experience and they take great care of you.

The nature of this destination makes it ideal for the easy-going rider who is confident, adventurous and wants to explore this beautiful area on a fun horse without limitations. In combination with skiing it’s an excellent winter holiday but it’s an equally beautiful choice in the warmer months when the flowers are out and you can enjoy the expanses of countryside at their most green.”

Sarah:

“This was a truly amazing week and the hospitality was second to none, with riding suited to the bold and adventurous rider. For anyone seeking a week of adventure, amazing value for money, and breathtaking scenery – this is the holiday for you!

My week didn’t start as planned with my suitcase not turning up at Split Airport! The staff at the airport were very helpful and quickly located my case, which had not left Heathrow, but it was sent to me the very next day. All the ladies were so kind as to lend me anything I needed until then (for which I am very grateful!). The journey to Kupres was extremely simple, with a connecting flight from Zagreb to Split as it was not peak season. The flights were both very short and flew by and upon arrival at Split, we were greeted by Mate and his business partner Marko. We travelled in two cars across the border from Croatia into Bosnia, the journey taking little over two hours. The drive was scenic to say the least, and I found myself becoming even more excited about the week to come. I would be lying if I said I had not been questioned about my reasons for visiting such an unusual destination but the completely unspoilt countryside is stunning. Upon arrival at the farm we were shown around and introduced to family and friends of Mate and provided with welcoming drinks. The communal cabin is amazing, we all wanted one of our own! We were told that the guys built the cabins themselves, which left us pretty impressed. They have a real traditional, rustic feel but with all the modern day necessities required. I guess the best way to describe both the communal cabin and our cabin next door would be “extremely cosy and homely”.

Our accommodation was in the main cabin next door, which consisted of two double bedrooms, a shower room, a small kitchen area, a single bed in the upstairs gallery and a double sofa bed in the living room. I think the favourite feature for all of us was the log fire, which added to the traditional feel of the place. After settling in we headed back to the cabin next door for a delicious dinner, mostly consisting of meat! This suited me down to the ground and there is certainly no shortage of food here. Mate and Marko had even made sure to provide special bread at every meal for a client who suffers from a yeast allergy. It’s a real family effort at the Farm with Marko’s mother forever providing fresh bread, and Mate’s wife and son always on hand to help and get involved with the cooking and hosting.

After a good night’s sleep and a plentiful breakfast (this consisted daily of bread, cheese, ham, jams, honey, tea, coffee and juice) it was time to hit the slopes. The ski resort is very close to the farm but we made a brief stop at Mate’s house to get fitted for boots and skis. Mate certainly has a great selection of ski gear to fit all guests in his garage. Once we arrived at the resort, Mate took the ladies who had not skied before to a smaller slope so he could teach them, and left his son Marko (who became known as ‘little Marko’ to avoid confusion with myself and Ellie, both having skied previously. Ellie and I headed onto the slopes with little Marco and he was brilliant at taking care of us whilst we got back into the swing of things. We all had a great time skiing and the weather was perfect for it. We were pretty hungry after a mornings skiing so we headed back to the farm, after another brief stop at the bar in Mate’s house. Lunch was served in the cabin at the farm and often consisted of soup, followed by pork, potatoes and salad.

Time to meet the horses in the afternoon. We wandered down to the stables and were introduced to the horses, who all looked happy and well cared for. It’s obvious how much they value their horses. We were appropriately matched to horses according to our riding abilities and preferences and we were off on our first ride. The horses were all lively and eager to get going, however there are a few quieter horses for the less experienced riders, or those preferring a quieter mount. I have to admit I was completely taken aback by the amount of open space for riding, and the horses are so surefooted. We were given the choice of how long we wanted to ride for, and the ride was of a pretty fast pace, we enjoyed it thoroughly. After riding we were served another fabulous dinner in the cabin.

The days following consisting of a combination of skiing, riding and lots of food! On our third day we went on a longer ride, stopping on a hillside, where we were met by Marko and Lepi for a lunch and rest stop. On another occasion, we spent the afternoon in search of wild horses but unfortunately we did not find them this time. It was still a lovely drive and on the way home we had a great time doing some off-roading on the hills. There is never a shortage of activities here including paragliding, motocross and archery. The best thing about this holiday is the flexibility, we were always free to choose what we did, how long we rode for and pretty much planned our own itinerary. On the last riding day, Mate brought out the stallions for anyone wishing to have a ride in the round pen, an offer which was soon taken up by several of our group.

I would highly recommend this holiday to anyone wanting a value for money, extremely fun trip. I have never felt so welcomed and been treated so well in such a beautiful environment. I would certainly return without a shadow of a doubt and I can only imagine how scenic it must be in spring. Mate and Marko are truly fabulous hosts, who clearly enjoy having visitors and exchanging stories from various cultures.”

Read more about the ride here: Kupres Farm, Bosnia and Herzegovina.