Medieval Albanian Trails

Day 1

Riding: No riding.

You should aim to arrive in Albania during the morning. A transfer will meet all riders at Tirana airport and take you the 220km to Gjirokaster town, a journey of c. 3-4 hours. There will be time to settle into your room at the traditional hotel in the historical centre of Gjirokaster before meeting for lunch (to own account; provided you arrive early enough). In the afternoon you will be able to explore the town, perhaps visiting the bazaar, Gjirokaster castle, the church, mosque or Enver Hoxha's house. We would recommend buying a local map as during dinner your hosts will discuss the route with you and you may like to mark it. Dinner will be taken at a traditional restaurant and the guides will be on hand to fully brief you for the week ahead.

Day 2

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

After breakfast and the allocation of horses, set out riding from Gjirokaster lake - you will notice how quickly the terrain changes from being flat to very steep. Ride through woodland and past small streams whilst climbing up and down hills until stopping for a picnic lunch at the monastery of Cepo. This monastery is an important orthodox cult site which is located on a rocky slope on the northern side of Wide Mountain and has fantastic views of the Drinos valley. Of the former historical complex, only the basilica type church, with domed roof, and a few former houses remain - these houses were once places where travellers could rest.

After lunch, ride down to the valley of the Kardhiq river where there are natural pillar rock monuments - these pillars are unique to the area and stand 3-4m high. The locals call them "Gods of the Light" but scientifically they were formed by erosion. Continue riding until reaching the village of Fushbardha which is an important centre in Laberian Law Codic. The codic was re-written by Idriz Suli in the 18th century and there is a statue of him in the centre of the village. Spend the night in a traditional village house with home-made food and drinks.

Day 3

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

After a traditional family breakfast, set off riding following the route that King Skerdilajd's army took around 2,300 years ago. King Skerdilajd was the youngest brother of King Agron who died in 230BC. He was the commander of 5,000 troops sent by Queen Teuta against Epirus in 229BC to create an Adriatic Front against Rome. The path passes through woodland, over mountains and rocky landscapes and past many ruins from ancient civilisations - Basha stones, Dhespina cave, the Rock of Kaze, Valley of Cheries and Shameti Brook are some of the local toponims you will pass. After a long morning (c. 5hrs) you stop for lunch in a mountain valley. The afternoon ride continues through the mountains to reach the village of Borsh after c. 8-9 hours. You will again be staying with a family and enjoying a meal in their company.

This is a challenging day and you will have to walk on foot, leading your horse, for c. 1-2 hours. You need to be fit and wear good walking boots.

Day 4

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

After breakfast you set out to visit the castle of Borsh (also known as Castle of Sopot) which is situated on a hill 500m above sea level and dates back to c. 4000BC. This rocky castle has held an important role throughout history and many remnants and artefacts have been found here - it has been held by the French, Germans and Italians in it's time! In the Middle Ages it was adapted as a military garrison by Ali Pasha and one of his supporters, Haxhi Bendo, built the mosque at the castle.

Today is a shorter day of riding after yesterdays long day. Starting from the shore at Borsh, follow the old road along the seashore, passing olive trees and many citrus fruit trees. Many defence bunkers remain along the waters edge at Piqeras, an old fishing village. Leave the horses in the village and enjoy lunch on the beach where you can rest for a few hours and swim. The evening is again in a family home where you can sample fresh seafood and a special cheese from the area. There may also be time to walk around the village or visit the monastery of Kremansova if you wish.

Day 5

Riding: 2 - 3 hours

Breakfast will be taken on a terrace with lovely views over the Ionian sea - here you can sample traditional byrek (cheese pie) and cookies, butter, fresh milk and honey. Your riding day starts by riding down through the olive terraces and onto the beach at Bunec. Then ride uphill again to Lukove village where you stop to visit the church of St Friday. You then ride downhill again, across challenging terrain, until reaching Shpella beach where you stop for lunch. You can relax and possibly swim for c. 2 hours before riding along an old road through jungle-like landscapes which connects the coast with the upper villages.

In the afternoon you will visit the village of Shen Vasil, a mediaeval centre. The village suffered a long period of terror during the dictatorship rule of Albania, being a labour camp for political prisoners. Hundreds of intellectuals suffered and lost their lives in this camp over four decades. The host family can share with you memories of a very recent dark period of Albania. Traces of the past are visible everywhere. Your accommodation will be in a home used as a dormitory for soldiers that served the camp.

NB. Although this day includes some beach riding, the sand is rocky and only suitable for walking on. These are mountain horses and are not keen on paddling in the water either. Any faster riding on beach day takes place on an old path about 100m from the beach.

Day 6

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

After breakfast, set out riding back to King Skerdilajd's army route. South of the valley of the river Kalasa you can see Foinike hill where Skerdilajd's army stopped to face the Epirot army in 229BC. Stop for lunch in the shade of some trees at the base of White Mountain. There are plenty of opportunities for long canters today! Later in the day, you climb the Neck of Skerfica mountain which was named after the pass the army crossed. Continue riding to the village of Fushbardha which is your destination for the night. An old phosphorus mine (another ex labour camp for political prisoners) marks the entrance to the village but you will stay in a traditional village home.

Day 7

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

Your final day of riding sees you returning to Gjirokaster. Ride downhill from Fushebardha to the valley of the Kardhiq valley - after the challenging descent you can open up for some fantastic canters and gallops across the valley floor. Eventually you reach Cepo monastery, where you had lunch on the first day. Rest here for an hour and then it's a 2 hour ride back to Viroi Lake where you say goodbye to the horses.

Farewell dinner and overnight in your traditional hotel in the historic area.

Day 8

Riding: No riding.

After breakfast you are transferred back to the airport for your flight home.

Day 1

Riding: No riding.

You should aim to arrive in Albania during the morning. A transfer will meet all riders at Tirana airport and take you the 220km to Gjirokaster town, a journey of c. 3-4 hours. There will be time to settle into your room at the traditional hotel in the historical centre of Gjirokaster before meeting for lunch (to own account; provided you arrive early enough). In the afternoon you are free to explore the town, perhaps visiting the bazaar, Gjirokaster castle, the church, mosque or Enver Hoxha's house. We would recommend buying a local map as during dinner your hosts will discuss the route with you and may like to mark it. Dinner will be taken at a traditional restaurant and the guides will be on hand to fully brief you for the week ahead.

Day 2

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

After breakfast at the hotel, the horses are allocated and you set off on your first day of riding towards the village of Karjan which has been populated since the early Medieval period. Along the journey, you will pass through a rural environment of traditional farming, small houses and gardens and cultivated land. You will cross hilly landscapes, valleys, small streams and some cliffs. The path passes the Drino river or "Tree of Life" river which is the most important water basin in the area with many ancient pagan stories. You will also pass the ruins of the Santa Triada castle which was reconstructed during 1809-1810 by Ali Pasha as an important strategic point along caravan routes. The castle ruins were later used as a military base during socialist times. A picnic lunch is taken near the village of Erind.

After 4-5 hours you will reach the village of Karjan, which was once a rural stop for the caravans. You may wish to visit the church and old bridge before dinner at a local family house where you will also spend the night.

Day 3

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

Continue riding northwards to the village of Small Laboya and the beautiful valley of Cajupi. The trail follows the old cobblestone merchant road of Zhapa, with wide-open views of the mountains and valleys - you may even find ancient market artefacts alongside the trail. Stop in Small Laboya with its wonderful church and large houses which once belonged to merchants. Laboya was the birthplace of Vangjel Zhapa, a well-known businessman and philanthrope who was the organiser of the first modern Olympic Games c. 200 years ago.

After visiting the church, continue riding up into the mountains passing endemic vegetation such as Mountain Tea, oregano, wild rose or Dig-Dag (digitalis). Follow the mountain path to the valley of Cajupi where you stop for a picnic lunch under the trees. Here you can also taste the famous Brati spring water at a typical watering station for the caravans and see a small tower that protected them from bandits known as Karakolls.

The afternoon trail through the valley is across terrain which is ideal for canters and gallops and the horses are happy to oblige. Follow the medieval caravan trails past a famous bandit station called Hija e Mallkuar or the Cursed Shadow - this area saw many battles as thieves tried to rob the passing caravans. Your destination is the village of Nderan where you will stay with a local cow and shepherding family for the next two nights. You can help the family with the milking process, preparing dinner or collecting honey from their bees - this village is one of the most important producers of honey in Albania with nearly ten different flavours depending on season and flower type. Dinner will be a mixture of local produce with raki and wine.

Day 4

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

This morning's breakfast is a traditional mixture of mountain foods - freshly made bread, cookies, butter, jam, eggs, cheese, honey and milk. Today you will be riding some of the most important horse pathways of the 17th and 18th centuries which connected the biggest commercial centres in southern Albania. You will ride past the natural monument "Rock of Zhej" and stop for a break at the water spring of Lliar which was reconstructed by Ali Pasha in the early 19th century. Continue downhill along a difficult route to an ancient stone bridge where you stop for lunch. During the summer months, it may be possible to cool off in the Hoshteva river. After lunch visit Hoshteva's unique church which was built in 999AD and has many pagan elements visible in its wall paintings. The ride continues past the Byzantine church of Lliar and the monastery of Nivan Saint Mehilli, built in 1702. Cross the bridge which connects the monastery with Nderan village and spend a second night with the same local family.

Day 5

Riding: 6 hours

This morning's ride starts in an exhilarating way, with many canters along the mountain valley floor. Pass small, remote farms, wild cliffs and many isolated monuments. This ride follows in the footsteps of ancient commercial caravans towards important fairs and today's route through Pogoni is a true step back in time. Many byzantine monuments, artistic ruins and mountain springs can be found alongside the path. The picnic lunch is taken near one of the most famous architectural monuments - the stone bridge of Hllomo or Ciminxhi's bridge - only reached by horse, this is one of the most isolated constructions.

After c. 6 hours of riding you reach the mountain village of Polican which is populated by a Greek minority - here you have the chance to explore some of the cult monuments before sampling some regional gastronomic delights.

Day 6

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

Today you leave the Greeks behind for the most challenging day of riding through the mountains. Follow the trail uphill to Swallow Rock, 500m above the Suha river and stop for lunch by the Church of Labova of the Cross. This rare monument represents the oldest church in Albania which was believed to have been built by the imperator Justinian in 554AD. The church was saving relics of its original cross until they were stolen in 1989. Justinian married his wife, Teodora in the small chapel and the villagers inherited her wedding dress and preserved it for centuries.

In the afternoon, ride on to the small town of Libohova which is nestled at the foot of Bureto mountain. This ancient settlement is home to a well-known Albanian noble family who share their name with the town. You can visit the castle which was the dowry presented by Ali Pasha when his sister married one of the most important members of the Libohova family. Spend the night in a local family house and join them in another delicious meal.

Day 7

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

Watch the sunrise over the valley whilst enjoying breakfast in the garden. Before riding there is time for a guided walk through the town, visiting a small Bektashi cult object and the tomb of Ali Pasha's sister Shanisha.

Today's ride takes you through hilly terrain to the Antigonea national park, passing through the village of Suha. You will reach the national park in c. 3 hours. Here lies the city which King Pyrrhus built in 295BC and named after his wife Antigona, daughter of King Ptolemeus of Egypt. Plutarch wrote that the city was built by love but destroyed by hate. Enjoy a picnic lunch within the park before a guided tour of the monuments.

After another hour of riding, you reach Gjirokaster town and the stables where you leave the horses. You stay in the same house as the first night and have a final dinner in a small restaurant in the old bazaar. Later in the evening, you can take a celebratory drink in a popular bar.

Day 8

Riding: No riding.

After breakfast you will be transferred to the airport for your flight home.

Day 1

Riding: No riding.

You should aim to arrive in the morning, to allow time for the transfer and to be able to visit the town of Gjirokaster. The transfer takes around 3-4 hours (250km). Settle into your hotel which is just a 10 minute walk from the centre of historical Gjirokaster, and take a walk around the historical town before dinner. You may also wish to visit Enver Hoxha’s house, Gjirokaster castle, the church of the Old Bazaar, the mosque of the Bazar or Skenduli house which represents Gjirokaster traditional life. Dinner will be served at a local restaurant and during dinner your guides will discuss the trail with you - this is your chance to bring up any requests. We recommend that you buy a map of the area before dinner in order to gain a good understanding of the itinerary.

Day 2

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

After breakfast at the hotel you will be allocated your horses. Set off riding through the countryside towards the medieval village of Karjan. This traditional village is a rural stop for passing travellers with its small churches and old Roman bridge. Your route takes you past small houses and gardens, through traditional farming and cultivated land - a combination of hilly landscapes, valleys, small streams and cliffs. You are also blessed with a view of River Drino, the “Tree of Life” river - one of the most important water basins in the area. Along your route you also pass the ruins of the castle of Santa Triada which was reconstructed during 1809-1810 by Ali Pasha, as a strategic point to control all the travelling caravans. The castle ruins were later used during the time of socialism for military issues. Stop for a picnic lunch near the village of Erind.

After around 4-5 hours riding you reach Karjan village where you spend the night with a local family who treat you to a traditional dinner.

Day 3

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

After breakfast you ride down Drino’s valley to the village of Andon Poci, and then Hundkuq village. The ride becomes more challenging as you enter a small forest before reaching Labova of Zhapa. This village is well known all over the south for its wonderful Church and the old merchant houses which are now mostly ruined. Labova is also the birthplace of Vangjel Zhapa, the organiser of the first modern Olympic Games. Zhapa was a well-known businessman and philanthropist who lived around 200 years ago. 

Stop for a picnic lunch and visit the church before starting your ride up the mountain. The vegetation here is rare and unusual featuring species such as mountain tea, oregano, wild rose and other endemic plants like digitalis or 'Dig–Dag' as it's known locally. Follow the mountain path to the valley of Cajupi where you camp for the night. You will have the chance to taste the famous Brati spring water at this typical stopping point for the old caravans and visit a small medieval tower of protection called “karakoll”. You may also be able to experience milking sheep with the shepherds.

Day 4

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

After breakfast you follow the medieval trade route with its famous bandit hideout 'Hija e Mallkuar' or 'The Cursed Shadow'. From here, thieves would rob the caravans passing through Zagoria! Continue riding to the most important horse pathway of the XVII and XVIII century which used to connect the biggest commercial centres in Southern Albania. You'll pass a beautiful natural monument called the Rock of Zhej and stop for a short break at the water spring of Lliar, reconstructed by Ali Pasha in the early XIX century. Then it's a challenging downhill route to the ruins of a medieval stone bridge (the bridge collapsed in February 2018) where you stop for lunch and a refreshing swim in the river. 

In the afternoon, ride uphill to Hoshteva village, your destination for the night. Only 30 people currently live in this village with its unique church which was initially built in 999AC and last restored in 1866 . The monument has a very particular style with lots of pagan elements within the wall paintings.

Spend the night in a small family hotel, the only one in Hoshteva village, and enjoy a home-cooked dinner in the family’s garden.

Day 5

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

Your riding day starts with a climb to reach Gjurmemushka mountain pass, but after that you will ride mostly downhill. Pass Maleshova village to visit the church and Limari's castle ruins. and stop for a picnic lunch next to a stream under the trees.

Views of the River Vjosa open up to you from the top of the mountain during your afternoon ride. You eventually reach the village of Mbrezhdan, which is a poor and forgotten area due to its isolation, lack of roads and immigration but still very welcoming. Here you stay in a local home and experience the traditional way of cooking outside and the famous “petanik” - a special pie made in the mountains. Mbrezhdan is a Raki area and very well known for its “spoon” desserts.

Day 6

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

After breakfast you continue riding downhill to reach the river Vjosa. For the rest of todays ride you will follow the river bank. The landscape is very different to previous days and there are many opportunities for  long canters. 

Camp in front of Piskova village on the dry part of the river bed and enjoy a meal cooked by a small restaurant in Permet (the meal will be brought to camp by car). The afternoon is relaxed and you can swim in the river, or even fish if you wish. Dinner is taken later, under the stars.

Day 7

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

Depart Piskova and keep following the river bank. Again you are riding through an undulating landscape with many opportunities to canter. You should reach Permet town by lunchtime. Leave the horses on the outskirts and transfer to a hotel in the centre of Permet.  Have lunch in a small restaurant and then the afternoon is free to visit the town, walk or climb the famous Premti rock. Before dinner you can visit the village of Leusa by car (a few kilometres away) to discover the Orthodox Church of St. Mary which is well-known for its outstanding mural paintings from the Byzantine era. 

Return to Permet for dinner in a family run restaurant in the middle of the town. You can later enjoy the night life in different music bars if you wish.

Day 8

Riding: No riding.

Today is a rest day for the horses. We suggest you take a trip to the thermal waters of Benja in the Langarica canyons, which is half an hour away by car. There you can explore the canyons, swim, or if you're feeling brave, go river hiking to explore the “Pigeons Cave” on a rock along Langarica river. Have lunch in a restaurant close to the canyons and return back to Permet in the late afternoon. Dinner will be served in a small restaurant close to the hotel. 

If you don't want to visit Benja then you can just relax in the town of Permet.

NB. Meals, drinks and activities today are not included since it is a free day.

Day 9

Riding: 5 - 6 hours

This is one of the longest and most difficult days of riding and you will need to wear long sleeves to protect your arms from branches. Most of the ride is climbing Dhembel mountain, from where the views are amazing. A picnic lunch will be carried in your saddlebags as the car cannot reach you here. You may have to get off and lead your horse, both uphill and downhill. 

During the afternoon ride you pass the Byzantine church and monastery of Saint Mikhail of Nivan, built in 1702. Ride over the medieval bridge built in the same period to connect the monastery with Nderan village - a famous centre for livestock fairs and your stopping point for the night. You will overnight with a vllah family - their community represents a rare linguistic minority in Albania. Dinner will be a delicious mixture of local products, raki and wine. You can join in with local life and accompany the family during the milking process, dinner preparation or look around their farm animals and garden. This village is one of the most important producers of mountain honey in South Albania and offers nearly 10 different flavours of honey from different pastures.

Day 10

Riding: 4 - 5 hours

Today's riding combines changing landscape and riding pace. There are wide valleys, steep downhills, green forests and the beauty of Suha River before lunch. Lunch is taken beside the river with the chance to freshen up in the water. Later you climb Swallow Rock and visit the church of Labova of the Cross - one of the most important in the country. The Church of Labova of the Cross is a rare monument representing the oldest church in Albania, built by Justinian the Great in 554. Justinian married Teodora his wife at the small chapel of this village and the villagers inherited her wedding dress for centuries. The church is decorated with an old wooden icon full of floral and symbolic animal scenes.

Later in the afternoon you ride to Libohova, a small town nestled at the foot of the Bureto Mountain. Archaeological evidence indicates a very ancient settlement here which peaked during the 17th-century when it became an important commercial centre. It is possible to take a long walk to visit Libohova’s castle, a Bektashi cult object and the tomb of Ali Pasha’s sister, Shanisha. You overnight in a local family house with more delicious local food.

Day 11

Riding: 3 - 4 hours

A short riding day of just 3.5 hours. In the morning you ride through rolling hills, Drino’s valley and cross a few streams before climbing a steep hill to reach Antigonea National Park. Antigonea was built by King Pyrrhus in 295 BC and named after his first wife Antigona, daughter of King Ptolemeus of Egypt. After a break you ride one  hour to the stables where you can enjoy the experience of letting your horses run free and roll. A picnic lunch is taken in the village close to the stables. You are transferred back to the same hotel in Gjirokaster as you spent your first night. Your farewell dinner will take place in a small restaurant in the old Bazaar and later in the evening you can have a celebratory drink in a popular bar.

Day 12

Riding: No riding.

After breakfast at the hotel you will be transferred back to the airport.